Another stellar weekend is in the bag. I’ll try to summarize shortly.
Whiskey – Ho did most of the hard problems at the Urinal (on his birthday). Jo did the Batholith Stem project… with ease. It’s in the guide as a possible V17+, so it may be Montana’s first V17. Jarred sent a bunch of stuff that was new to him and got close on Tuna Juice. I did a bunch of my favorites in the Sudden Valley and finished up the day by sending my 6 year project on the Conehead Boulder. It’s always nice to do something new at the older Whiskey areas, but it’s even nicer when it’s something that I’ve been trying ever since my first visit to Whiskey.
Cascade Creek – Holmer, Abby and I put up ten new problems from V0 to V9. Holmer sent a cool V9 FA below the Lava Pit that he called Magma Man. Abby sent a couple of her first outdoor boulder problems, including a first ascent. I sent my project in the Lava Pit, the Lava Lunge Traverse first try of the day. All in all it was one of the best weekends I’ve had bouldering. Great friends, perfect conditions, and lots of sending by everyone. Here’s the pics.
Jarred close to sticking the crux deadpoint on Flush V7
Ho trying the bad beta before sending Passage to Nagoya V8:
Jarred working Tuna Juice V10:
Jo sending CCC V5:
Holmer just before getting the FA of Magma Man V9:
Steep bouldering in Montana got a little better on Friday. I went back out to a new area near Whiskey that I wandered through last week. It’s an area that has seen some route development in the last year or so and I believe they’re calling it Whiskey Sour. Anyways, last week I found a 45 degree overhanging cave feature so that was my main objective, the Gold Cave. I managed to do a couple stellar new problems a V2 (the Gold Traverse) and a V4 (the Ecstasy of Gold). I made a video of both of the climbs (see below). I’m pretty proud of how it turned out since I was alone and I only have one camera I moved the camera and re-climbed the Ecstasy of Gold 4 or 5 times. The view looking into the cave where you can see the start of the problem is the actual first ascent.
I decided to take the long way out on the way back, which led me past a huge roof that I also saw last week. It’s an amazing roof with perfect rock, unfortunately like most large roofs in the Batholith there weren’t many holds. Last week I only noticed an obvious flaring seam that overhangs a lot. Using only the seam, it would be insanely hard. I’ve seen a lot of V13s & V14s in Hueco, Bishop, & Joe’s and this looked harder. So essentially, it looked impossible. But, this week I noticed a couple crimps left of the seam which would make it an easier compression problem, still rediculously hard, but it looks do-able (not by me). I didn’t try it, but I chalked up the potential holds so it’s easier to see the line in the photos below. It looks like it could be one of the best problems in Montana… There’s also a potential ‘one huge reach problem’ out the right side of the roof and a V1-ish jug haul just left of the sick proj. I’m calling the whole thing the 80 Proof Roof (little tip of the hat to Hueco). I’d like to get a group together and head back to try all the lines in a couple weeks, so let me know if you’re interested. Here’s a couple photos that don’t quite do it justice.
Amazing line using seam & chalked up crimps left of seam.
80 Proof Roof from below
I ended up going out yesterday as well. I gave Joe and Adam a tour of the End of the Road and they managed to make the guide out of date already. They both did a few of the classics (the Cornballer, the Italian Job, and the Seamstress) and they climbed a few new ones as well. Adam did a V4 variation between the Cornballer and the Italian Job and Joe climbed the Ass Dragon Project. He though that enduro V5 was a pretty accurate grade. Here’s a few photos from yesterday.
Joe on the FA of the Ass Dragon, V5
Joe gettin' ready for the high crux on the Seamstress, V2
I’m heading somewhere next weekend (hopefully City of Rocks/Castle Rock) so probably no new posts for a while. Hope y’all have/had a good weekend
The first supplement to the existing Whiskey Gulch bouldering guide is finished: the End of the Road Boulders. I’ve put the entire guide on this site as well as a couple pdf versions that can be downloaded. One is just a normal pdf version, while the other is arranged so it is easier to print a booklet. If you make it out to the End of the Road, let me know what you think of the guide, the directions, the grades, etc… Also, make sure to let me know if you’ve climbed any of the unclimbed lines or projects. Either leave a comment on the guide page here or send me an email at echristensen605@gmail.com. Enjoy!
Bouldering Montana 