Category Archives: Hyalite Canyon

Summer Summary

This blog’s not quite dead yet.  As usual, I spent the summer climbing on ropes rather than over crash pads.  I’d like to say that’s why I don’t post, but the posts don’t seem too much more frequent during bouldering season.  Well, it may just be a quarterly blog.  Deal with it.  All 7 of you.  Here’s some photos from the last 4 months or so:

EC - Happy Colored Marbles V2, FA - Boulder River Boulders, Mile 18

EC – Happy Colored Marbles V2, FA – Boulder River Boulders, Mile 18

4th of July celebrations at Chestnut

4th of July celebrations at Chestnut

Ho - Overhangatang V5 - Hyalite Canyon

Ho – Overhangatang V5 – Hyalite Canyon

EC - Overhangatang V5 - Hyalite Canyon (photo by Ho)

EC – Overhangatang V5 – Hyalite Canyon (photo by Ho)

EC - the Gravy Train 5.12b/c - Ten Sleep Canyon (photo by Ho)
EC – the Gravy Train 5.12b/c – Ten Sleep Canyon (photo by Ho)
SHo - Soft in the Middle 5.11c - Gallatin Canyon

SHo – Soft in the Middle 5.11c – Gallatin Canyon

Leslie - the Solace of Bolted Faces 5.12a - Wild Iris

Leslie – the Solace of Bolted Faces 5.12a – Wild Iris

Chris - the Devil Wears Spurs 5.10d - Wild Iris

Chris – the Devil Wears Spurs 5.10d – Wild Iris

Leslie - Limestone Cowboy 5.12a - Wild Iris

Leslie – Limestone Cowboy 5.12a – Wild Iris

Wild Iris

Wild Iris

EC - Don't Bring Your Guns to Town 5.12c - Wild Iris (photo by Chris Ennis)

EC – Don’t Bring Your Guns to Town 5.12c – Wild Iris (photo by Chris Ennis)

Chris - High Plains Drifter 5.10c - Wild Iris

Chris – High Plains Drifter 5.10c – Wild Iris

Jess - the Terrible V7 - Leavenworth

Jess – the Terrible V7 – Leavenworth

EC - Cattleguard Arete V8 - Leavenworth

EC – Cattleguard Arete V8 – Leavenworth

EC - Andy's Arete V5 - Leavenworth

EC – Andy’s Arete V5 – Leavenworth

Peder - Crimpsqueek V7 - Leavenworth

Peder – Crimpsqueek V7 – Leavenworth

Jess - Footless Traverse V5 - Leavenworth

Jess – Footless Traverse V5 – Leavenworth

EC - WAS V8 - Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

EC – WAS V8 – Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

Peder - Premium Coffee V7 - Leavenworth

Peder – Premium Coffee V7 – Leavenworth

Peder - Premium Coffee V7 - Leavenworth

Peder – Premium Coffee V7 – Leavenworth

EC - the Beach Arete V2 - Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

EC – the Beach Arete V2 – Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

-EC

Advertisements

And now for something completely different…

Last Saturday Loren talked me into heading up to Hyalite Canyon to belay him on his mixed project.  To be honest, it didn’t take much prodding – Hyalite is possibly my favorite place in the Bozeman area and I don’t spend enough time up there in the winter.  On top of that, I was curious about this whole mixed climbing thing.  Since we were heading to Billings for a comp (keep reading…) I didn’t really want to rope up, but I was happy enjoying the canyon while belaying Loren.  Here’s a few photos from the morning and a video of one of Loren’s attempts on ‘Northwest Passage.’  Make sure you watch it til’ the end…

Roping up for battle in the Bingo Cave

Roping up for battle in the Bingo Cave

Lowering off 'Northwest Passage'

Lowering off ‘Northwest Passage’

 

As I mentioned, we finished up at Hyalite, drove back to town, picked up Sarah, then headed straight to Billings for the Montana Bouldering Championships at Steepworld.  Somehow we ended up with a car full of winners – Loren and I tied for top Men’s Amateur (aka scamateur) and Sarah won Woman’s Open.  Congrats SHo!  I didn’t take any photos during the main comp, but here some crappy shots I took during finals:

Dominic crushing the super-final on his way to victory.

Dominic crushing the super-final on his way to victory.

Charlie on the super-final.

Charlie on the super-final.

SHo earning her belt buckle woman's final #2

SHo earning her belt buckle woman’s final #2

Becky on woman's #1 and K-Fed on men's #1

Becky on woman’s #1 and K-Fed on men’s #1

SHo on woman's #1

SHo on woman’s #1

Walter on men's #1

Walter on men’s #1

 

-EC

the Gold Wall

I had the privilege of bolting a couple excellent lines up Hyalite Canyon just below the reservoir.  The lines are located on a limestone fin above a newer sport climbing area called the Swamp.  I’ve been calling the upper area the Fins.  Since I began bolting the Fins last summer I’ve finished three new lines with Kevin Macartney completing three more.  While it’s not a destination area by any means, it’s got some fun lines close to town – only about 25 minutes driving and a few minutes hiking.

In my opinion, the best rock up there is a wall I’ve been calling the Gold Wall.  I put up a sweet 5.11b (Copa de Oro) last summer and added a stellar 5.12b (Beast of Burden) just last week.  Both are excellent additions to Bozeman sport climbs, with each having unique moves on great rock.  Copa de Oro has three completely different problems stacked on top of each other – slightly overhung jugs, slab (beautiful & cruxy) and a compression finish.  Beast of Burden, while only four tight bolts, has just as much variety.  It starts with a great boulder problem to the second bolt which leads to easier underclings, then finishes with a unique balance crux (or crazy bypass… see below) just below a finish jug.

Luckily, I finished up the Beast just before Peder and Jess rolled into town for a few days so I was able to head up with them and take a bunch of photos of them on both routes.  As expected, both cruised through Copa de Oro for a warm-up and I expected Peder to cruise through Beast of Burden as well, even though I talked Sarah into brushing off all the key tick-marks after she grabbed the 2nd ascent the day before.  Well, I’m pretty proud to say, Peder didn’t onsight it!  I watched him onsight every 12+ in Ten Sleep, but it turns out his kryptonite is the Beast of Burden in Hyalite Canyon.  He figured out the bottom crux after a bit and it turns out the upper crux is way harder for tall bastards – it’s basically a balance move where you rock around on a good foot, but his longer legs pushed him out from the wall.  In true tall bastard form, he found a crazy reach move off an undercling that no one else used and finished the route up after about 74 tries.

Jess on the other hand came crazy close to flashing it – just barely missing the finish jug on her first go.  She finished it up easily on her second go.  Nice work Jess!  Peder… keep training.

Without further ado:

Jess – Copa de Oro 5.11b

 

Jess – Copa de Oro 5.11b

 

Jess – lower crux of Beast of Burden 5.12b

 

Jess – upper crux of Beast of Burden 5.12b

 

Jess – upper crux of Beast of Burden 5.12b

 

Jess – upper crux of Beast of Burden 5.12b

 

Peder – Beast of Burden 5.12b

 

Peder – upper crux of Beast of Burden 5.12b (you’re going to need at least a 6’2″ wingspan for this method!)

 

-EC