Category Archives: Madison Valley

Loren, Bridget and I made it out to the Neat Rock Boulder in the Madison Valley yesterday.  They were only in town on Sunday and the forecast didn’t look good but we went out anyways.  It was a bit chilly warming up in the morning, but it slowly turned into a perfect day.  The sun popped out every once in a while which was great to bask in, but not long enough to heat up the slick rock.  We did a sweet little circuit on Lolo’s old stomping ground hitting up most of the classics.  I think I’ve said this before, but y’all should really hit up the Neat Boulders if you haven’t.  It’s not the largest area, but there’s some real gems out there!

We finished up the day on the Butterfly Effect, a classic two-mover V5/6 that Loren put up years ago.  While we were trying it I joked to Loren about doing a variation going up and right avoiding the jug finish of the Butterfly Effect.  Upon further inspection, it actually went!  I was able to decipher the moves and put it together just before we called it a day – the Lolo Effect V6, named after the man himself.

Photo from the day:

Loren – Tick Season V2

Loren – Tick Season V2

Loren – Tick Season V2

Bridget – Serendipity V0

EC – Serendipity V0

Loren – 5.15/V15 OW Project

Bridget – Yesteryear V5/6

EC – Yesteryear V5/6

Loren – Follow the Wind V5

Loren – the Butterfly Effect V5/6

-EC

I made it out the the Neat Rock Boulders a couple times in the last few weeks and I have to say I was impressed!  There aren’t a ton of problems there, but it’s close to Bozeman (40 minute drive + 1-10 minute hike), excellent stone, and a good concentration of fun problems.  Download a copy of Loren Rausch’s guide for the Madison River Bouldering and check it out!  Here’s a few of my favorites:

-Everything on the Neat Boulder (V0-V4).  An excellent warm-up boulder about 60 seconds from the car.  I really enjoyed the right arete – technical & balancy.

– Tick Season V0+, a weird, somewhat awkward finger crack with a tricky finish.

– Yesteryear V6, crimps to excellent slopers.  The gneiss here has some of the best slopers around Bozeman.

– the Butterfly Effect V6, a perfect two-mover on immaculate stone.  It’s right near the top of the hill with a great view of the Madison Valley as well.

Myself on the Butterfly Effect

I put together a little video with a few of the problems I did.  Enjoy!

If you’re psyched to head out there, I’d recommend going sooner rather than later.  It will probably start getting over-run with rattlesnakes and ticks in the next month or so.  Although the 10-15 inches of snow we’re supposed to get tomorrow might keep the nasties hibernating just a little longer…

-EC

In honor of Loren Rausch‘s (aka Lolo (aka Euro Trash)) dirty thirtieth Birthday I present to you Madison River Bouldering, written by the man himself, Loren Rausch.  Loren is famous in the world-wide climbing scene for setting that amazing traversing boulder problem under the belly at Spire.  Yeah, you know the one… awkward, scrunchy, no feet, sandbagged – mega classic.  In all seriousness, Loren is a uber bad-ass and one of the best all-rounders I know.  He can crush any medium of climbing that gets in his way.

Loren sent me the guide a while ago and I’ve been meaning to put in on the site.  But, a combination of laziness, forgetfullness and less than ideal conditions in the Madison Valley prevented me from it up until now.  But, as long as it’s not raining conditions should be prime now.

To download the excellent guide click ‘Madison River Bouldering’ under the ‘Guides’ menu on the top of the page.  Enjoy!

The author, in his element:

This 30 year old man may be teaching your kids science someday.  You’ve been warned.  Happy Birthday Loren!

-EC