Category Archives: Mutants

the Last Few Weeks…

Alright, haven’t posted in a while so I’m just going to see if I can put everything in one big post.

First off, I went to Yellowstone over Memorial weekend.  Didn’t get any bouldering in, but I took some photos that turned out ok so I though I’d share:

In between bouts of rain and roped climbing, I’ve managed to get out bouldering a bunch.  Spent a few days at Whiskey developing, climbing established obscurities, and taking photos/vids:

Care Bear Flake of Fright, V0

the Shortest Straw, V2

my spotter, Seq-knar

Also, made it out to Yankee Jim for a few days doing the same.  Have some good video of some excellent new problems right in the heart of the Locomotives (about 50ft from Gigarete), but I’ve got a couple more to finish up then I’ll post up video of them all.  Also, Ho and I found a nice little valley of boulders in Yankee Jim that are only about 10 minutes from the road.  Not gonna be another Locomotives, but it should produce at least a few good ones.  Should be more on that in the future as well.

Lastly, not bouldering related, the Bozeman area has two new 5.13’s, put up by the usual suspects – Jeff Ho and Kyle Vassilopoulos.  Jeff did “Swamp Thing” (mid 13) a line he bolted last year at the Swamp in Hyalite.  Kyle did “Vincent” (5.13d) a long standing project at Frog Rock.  Nice work guys!


Cody Day 1 & Bozeman 5.13 Craziness

I finally finished up the video from my first day of bouldering in Cody a couple weeks ago.  I started off the day by finally trying the Cheese Traverse.  I never tried it mostly because I’m scared of any problems that are longer than 3 moves.  Well, I warmed up then figured out the moves and sent it.  Even though it’s a traverse, it’s easily one of the best problems on Cedar Mtn.  Perfect rock and really fun moves.  Next up was Medusa, one of my 3 main goals for the trip.  For me the problem came down to sticking the first move, then it’s 4 or 5 more painful crimp moves until the juggy finish.  I only stuck the first move twice, falling off the last move the first time.  I just about gave up because the problem was so hard on my fingers.  I gave it another go and sent.  I’m glad I did it, but I’m not sure I’d recommend it to others.  I finished up with Kissing Cozzens, a hard dynamic problem that was really good.  Here’s the vid:

Also congrats to the rediculous amount of 5.13 sends recently for Bozemanites.  There’s been at least 8 different Boze-men who have sent a 13 in the last few weeks.  Some of the more notable ascents include:  Kyle Vassilopoulis got the FA of the Cube arete project in the Gallatin Canyon naming it “Occam’s Razor” (5.13d), Joe Meiners sent the Ho-Master’s Gallatin Tower testpiece “Ten Pin” (5.13c) for it’s third (?) ascent, and Kevin Macartney FLASHED “Neutral Spirit” a long 5.13a in Ten Sleep.  Daaaammmmnnnnn!  I’m just hoping to send a couple 5.11s this year…  Congrats guys, keep up the good work!

Stay tuned for one more vid from my Cody trip.