As I mentioned in my last post, I went to Upper Mason Lake early in September and did a terrific new dyno, the Interplanetary Insanitarium. While I was up there I noticed that the Lake was way below it’s normal level, which opened up a few new lines on a huge lake side boulder – the Ark. Unfortunately a thunderstorm was moving in while I was completing the I.I. and I had to cut the day short, hiking out in a drizzle. Well, that boulder was on my mind the entire week. In the last few years that I’d been going to the lake I’ve never seen it low at all so I knew I had to take advantage before the snow came in. I established a couple sweet new problems. The first, SeqKnar V5, named in honor of Sequoia’s fifth birthday, should be perfectly dry the vast majority of the time. The second, Smoke on the Water V2/3, is super classic and will definitely be in the lake during most normal snow seasons. Smoke on the Water head up great moves on perfect rock to a tough mantel on thin crimps just high enough to make me back off a couple times before screaming my way through it. Here’s a few photos/screenshots from the day:
the Interplanetary Insanitarium V6 – It’s not too easy to pose a picture of a dyno with a self timed camera, so I’m pretty proud that I got one to work.
Sequoia hanging out by the lake on her fifth b-day.
Figuring out what would become SeqKnar V5 (screenshot)
FA of SeqKnar V5 (screenshot)
FA of Smoke on the Water V2/3 (screenshot)
FA of Smoke on the Water V2/3 (screenshot)
Soaking in the view (screenshot)
I also talked Sarah and Leslie into Cascade Creek for an afternoon instead of sport climbing a couple weeks ago. I toured them around to the classics and when they left I went for a little jaunt up the hill. I managed to top out the hill above the boulders. The whole point was to look for more problems, but that was pretty much a bust. There’s definitely potential on the way up, but the highest talus field was what was on my mind the whole time and there was absolutely nothing up there that would make me do that hike again. I did see a moose on top of the ridge so that made it worth the horrible hike. Photos:
Leslie – Cream V1
Sarah – Peaches V3
Sarah – Peaches V3
Sarah – Peaches V3
Leslie – Peaches V3
Little different view of the Skyline and the upper Gally formations from the top of the ridge above the Cascade boulders.
We had a great crew up at Cascade last Sunday so I once again have some photos to post up. Joe and Griffin were in town from SLC for the weekend along with Alex, Ho, Isaac and myself. We spent the entire day on two of the best boulders Cascade has to offer – the Explosive Boulder and the Haunted Space Mansion. As usual, everyone crushed:
Joe – Fire in the Hole V4
Griffin – Fire in the Hole V4
Griffin – TNT V7 (3 Points of Contact…)
Joe – TNT V7 (Zero Points of Contact…)
Joe – TNT V7 – Not a great photo, but I love Griffin’s expression.
Ho – FA of Intergalactic Jellyfish V6 – Brilliant Slab!
Alex – Intergalactic Jellyfish V6
Joe – Project
Griffin – Project
Isaac didn’t wear a bright shirt so no action photos. Might as well wear camo…
Besides Cascade, I’ve been getting up to the Tobacco Roots a lot recently too. I’ve had a few days at North Willow Creek and a few more days at the Mason Lakes. I put together a short video of two of the best problems I’ve done in the TRoots – the Interplanetary Insanitarium and Stone Cold Crazy.
The I.I. is an amazing one move wonder dyno. I could barely pull off the ground when I first tried the I.I. in 2010. Last year I progressed to being able to generate and almost touch the hold you dyno to. This year when I made it back last month, I was able to get to the hold but didn’t feel too close to sticking it. I got into a little better shape and succeeded last Saturday. Definitely one of the best problems I’ve put up! It was really great to have the multi-year progression on it as well.
The other problem, Stone Cold Crazy, I put up in June while there was still snow. I mentioned it in this post. As I suspected, the problem went from safe with snow to highball-jumbled-talus without snow. This problem would be a very serious endeavor without the safety blanket of snow. Enjoy!
As I mentioned before, I take a lot of video while I’m out bouldering alone. For one reason or another the majority of the footage doesn’t end up on youtube. Here’s some screenshots from my video footage from the last year:
Ring of Fire Right V2, FA - Whiskey Gulch, MT (Seq-knar spotting)
Peder's Demise V1 - Whiskey Gulch, MT
Better Eat Your Corndogs V6 - Lost Horse Canyon, MT
Inertia V6 - Whiskey Gulch, MT
the Kind V5 - RMNP, CO
Unnamed V6 - RMNP, CO
Aces High V4, FA - Cascade Creek, MT
Magnum V6 - Cascade Creek, MT
Breakdown V4, FA - Beartooths, MT
Project - Hollowtop Valley (Tobacco Roots), MT
Henry to EC - "WTF?"
Sunny Slab V0, FA - Beartooths, MT
A River Runs Through It V3, FA - Upper Mason Lake (Tobacco Roots), MT
the Topus V5 - Ibex, UT
Squeeze Problem V6 - the Poudre, CO (Full Disclosure - I didn't send...)
And last, but not least… my next post will be from here:
The Land of Milk and Honey - 4 days away.
A few photos from the last couple weeks:
YANKEE JIM – HIDDEN VALLEY
K-Bone sending '36-24-36'
EC on 'Foxey' (photo by K-Bone)
K-Bone sending 'the Ram's Horn'
EC - 'Fire in the Hole' (photo by Ho)
EC - 'Magnum' (photo by Ho)
Ho - 'Seizure of Strength'
Lastly is a vid of Ho doing the FA of a gorgeous new line at Cascade – ‘Fear Factor’. Technically it’s the 2nd ascent since I was blowing it with the video camera and ran out of space just before Ho climbed it the first time. I deleted some footage off and made him climb it again. Isaac would be proud!
Here’s a short vid of two new problems I put up at Cascade Creek. I did the first one, “Fire in the Hole”, last month and the second one, “S.O.S.”, last week. “S.O.S.” is excellent, but “Fire in the Hole” is my favorite problem at Cascade Creek so far and one of my favorites anywhere. I went back (with another pad and a spotter) and finished directly up the arete (“Tick Tick Boom”) which is a little easier, less contrived, and definitely a classic, but I still like the traverse finish better for some reason. Enjoy!
Another stellar weekend is in the bag. I’ll try to summarize shortly.
Whiskey – Ho did most of the hard problems at the Urinal (on his birthday). Jo did the Batholith Stem project… with ease. It’s in the guide as a possible V17+, so it may be Montana’s first V17. Jarred sent a bunch of stuff that was new to him and got close on Tuna Juice. I did a bunch of my favorites in the Sudden Valley and finished up the day by sending my 6 year project on the Conehead Boulder. It’s always nice to do something new at the older Whiskey areas, but it’s even nicer when it’s something that I’ve been trying ever since my first visit to Whiskey.
Cascade Creek – Holmer, Abby and I put up ten new problems from V0 to V9. Holmer sent a cool V9 FA below the Lava Pit that he called Magma Man. Abby sent a couple of her first outdoor boulder problems, including a first ascent. I sent my project in the Lava Pit, the Lava Lunge Traverse first try of the day. All in all it was one of the best weekends I’ve had bouldering. Great friends, perfect conditions, and lots of sending by everyone. Here’s the pics.
Jarred close to sticking the crux deadpoint on Flush V7
Ho trying the bad beta before sending Passage to Nagoya V8:
Jarred working Tuna Juice V10:
Jo sending CCC V5:
Holmer just before getting the FA of Magma Man V9:
Just got back from back from Cascade Creek where I put up a couple really, really good V4s. One vertical/techy (“Four is Cosmic”), the other steep, thuggy and pumpy (“Fire in the Hole”). I got vids of both so hopefully I’ll get around to posting it up soon. Anyways there’s quite a few climbing related events coming up in Bozeman that I thought I’d share:
-Reel Rock Film Tour, Friday 7:00PM at the Emerson. It’s looks pretty good. Ueli Steck is an animal. Watch the trailer and you’ll see what I mean.
-The Tour de Hyalite, Sat Sept. 25th. If you enjoy climbing after running fifteen mile to a peak this is the event for you. More info on the facebook event page here. Depending on the weather it can range from a fun trail run to epic. One of the more epic years:
-Lastly, there will be a Five Ten shoe demo at Spire Climbing on Wednesday, September 29th. It’s seems like Five Ten usually brings the full arsenal, so if you want to try some on that’ll be a great time to.