Category Archives: Cody

Caught in the Act-ion

Whiskey season is in full effect.  As I said in my last post, Ho did the top-out to “Caught in the Act” last week, calling it “the Thing” V8.  Finishing what he started, Ho went back on Sunday and completed the sit start to “the Thing” naming it “the Thing with Two Heads” V9.  He also did the long awaited full line of “Caught in the Act” into “the Thing” calling it “Caught in the Thing” V10.

Missing out on all the action at Whiskey, I spent the weekend down in Cody.  Here’s a video that I put together of a few of the problems I did.

Lastly, I didn’t include Jon Scott, “JS”, in the setters for FGD in my last post cause I didn’t have a photo of him that would do him justice.  But, I did a quick search of the old interweb and scrounged one up.

“JS”

JON CRUSH!!!

See y’all at FGD X!

-EC

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A Day At Cody

Ho and I made a day trip up to Cody on Saturday to sample some cowboy sandstone.  We met up with the local guidebook author Mike Snyder and his friend Dylan.  We warmed up at the Cheese boulder, one of my favorite warm-up boulders anywhere, then moved on to the Ripper Point boulder, where I sent the Ripper Point thanks to some good beta from Mike & Dylan.

Then we moved on to the the Batcave where Ho, Mike, & Dylan made quick work of Two Face.  We finished up on the Good Foote boulder.  I think Ho and I were both a little car-lagged from getting up early and driving 3 hours, but it still ended up being a fun day with good weather and good people.  I didn’t take as may photos as I should have, but here’s a few of Mike and Ho on Two Face in the Batcave.

 

 

 

 

-EC

Cody Day 1 & Bozeman 5.13 Craziness

I finally finished up the video from my first day of bouldering in Cody a couple weeks ago.  I started off the day by finally trying the Cheese Traverse.  I never tried it mostly because I’m scared of any problems that are longer than 3 moves.  Well, I warmed up then figured out the moves and sent it.  Even though it’s a traverse, it’s easily one of the best problems on Cedar Mtn.  Perfect rock and really fun moves.  Next up was Medusa, one of my 3 main goals for the trip.  For me the problem came down to sticking the first move, then it’s 4 or 5 more painful crimp moves until the juggy finish.  I only stuck the first move twice, falling off the last move the first time.  I just about gave up because the problem was so hard on my fingers.  I gave it another go and sent.  I’m glad I did it, but I’m not sure I’d recommend it to others.  I finished up with Kissing Cozzens, a hard dynamic problem that was really good.  Here’s the vid:

Also congrats to the rediculous amount of 5.13 sends recently for Bozemanites.  There’s been at least 8 different Boze-men who have sent a 13 in the last few weeks.  Some of the more notable ascents include:  Kyle Vassilopoulis got the FA of the Cube arete project in the Gallatin Canyon naming it “Occam’s Razor” (5.13d), Joe Meiners sent the Ho-Master’s Gallatin Tower testpiece “Ten Pin” (5.13c) for it’s third (?) ascent, and Kevin Macartney FLASHED “Neutral Spirit” a long 5.13a in Ten Sleep.  Daaaammmmnnnnn!  I’m just hoping to send a couple 5.11s this year…  Congrats guys, keep up the good work!

Stay tuned for one more vid from my Cody trip.

-EC

Injury, Cody, & Yankee Jim

Well, I’ve been holding off on posting since I got from Cody because I wanted to wait until after my doctor’s appointment this morning.  Yep, injury time.  Long story short: Cody bouldering – sit start heel hook – POP! – knee hurts.  I was completely sure that I tore my ACL because of the pop, but luckily I didn’t… I tore my meniscus.  I’m going to give it a few weeks to a month and see how it feels once it has settled down.  If it feels good after a month, I shouldn’t have to worry about it.  But if it’s still bad, I may need to have it repaired.  Either way, it’s a lot better than tearing my ACL, like I thought in the first place.  It could be a blessing in disguise.  I’ve been meaning to take five or six weeks off of climbing for a long time to give my fingers a break, so now I can.  Hopefully I’ll be back just in time for the summer heat…

Onto the fun stuff.  As I mentioned before, I made a little bouldering trip down to Cody.  The plan was to head out Friday night and climb in Yankee Jim then climb in Cody Sat, Sun, Tues, and Wed.  I hurt my knee on Tuesday so I cut it short by a day to get back to Bozeman before my knee started swelling up.  It ended up being one of my best climbing trips ever.  I managed to finish off all of my projects in Cody within the first couple days and did a bunch of other classics as well.  I took a ton of video on the trip so I’ll start off with some of the problems I did in Yankee Jim.

I’m starting to get really psyched on Yankee Jim again.  Lot’s of good, steep problems with really good movement.  I’ve even found my sick proj for the summer/fall, the Way Out Variation.  It’s a little contrived, but it’s right at my limit (if I can do it) and it’s really good movement.  It’s pretty much a 3 or 4 move V6 crouch start that links into a V3 dyno (see vid below).  I’ve gotten really close to sticking the first couple slap compression moves, but I think getting into the dyno position is going to be the crux.  Unfortunately, the first few moves are off of a right heel-hook, which is where my injury is, so it may have to wait until the fall.

Anyway, the hightlight of the first day of the trip, Friday evening, was Jars of Clay, a sandbagged V3 on the far end of the Locomotives.  I remember trying this one of the first times I went to Yankee Jim, years ago.  I couldn’t even pull off the starting holds.  Well, I still couldn’t pull off the starting holds until I found a sneaky toe-hook that made it do-able and really, really fun.  It’s a short problem, but it’s some of the coolest movement I’ve done in Montana, the toe-hook makes it feel more like Hueco than Montana.

Stay tuned for a bunch of video and some more climbing ramblings about my time in Cody.  For now, heres a vid of me at Yankee Jim doing Stronghold, Way Out Stand, and Jars of Clay, all excellent problems.  Enjoy!

-EC