Category Archives: Bitterroot

Yankee Jim and the Bitterroot

About time for my bi-monthly blog post…  Well, it’s been a pretty nice spring here in SW Montana.  Had to chase the good temps here and there but nothing to complain about (except ticks!).  A few weeks ago I was pretty psyched on Yankee Jim.  I managed to put down a couple fun new-to-me problems that I’d never climbed at the Locomotives – Mr. Leslie and Lightweight, both V6 and both highly recommended.

But, the main event was across the river – Montana’s Most Wanted.  This amazing problem is on the far west side of the Campground.  It was a fairly under the radar project for a long time before somebody climbed it a couple years ago and officially opened it to the masses.  Pat Dyess may have done it first but he’s a ginger so he is not to be trusted.  I spent one perfect day figuring out the moves and trying it from the start for a few hours.  By the time I figured out the moves I was already worn out so I couldn’t quite put it together.  But, I came back a few days later and put ‘er down first try.  One of the best around!  I finished up the day by climbing a new problem put up by Tony Chang in the talus west of MMW – Genghis Tron V5.  It’s another great problems with an awesome landing thanks to the hard work of Tony (and possibly others).

Lightweight V6-ish

Lightweight V6-ish

Crux move on Montana's Most Wanted V7

Crux move on Montana’s Most Wanted V7

Genghis Tron V5

Genghis Tron V5


Last week I was able to get out of town for a couple days.  I’d been wanting to go somewhere all spring with the top choices being Lander or Cody but I’ve been really busy so they never quite materialized.  I decided a quick trip to the Bitterroot was in order.  One day in Lolo, one day in Lost Horse, three goals – Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo), Lock Off Lichen Lips V6 (LoHo) and Big Chuck V6 (LoHo).  With a lot of sweat spent and a lot of skin lost (mostly at Lolo) I was able to climb all three problems!  Big Chuck is good, Lock Off is better, and Boobies is another one of the best.  Hooray for Boobies SDS is a couple moves into the best dyno ever followed by one of coolest mantels ever.  What more could you ask for?

Snagging the dyno on Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo)

Snagging the dyno on Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo)

trying Succubus V7 (Lolo)

trying Succubus V7 (Lolo)

Lolo Rock

Lolo Rock

Big Chuck V6 (Lost Horse)

Big Chuck V6 (Lost Horse)


Lastly here a little vid I put together of three Montana classics (mentioned above) that I climbed this spring – Montana’s Most Wanted, Lock Off Lichen Lips and Hooray for Boobies SDS:



Some Screenshots

As I mentioned before, I take a lot of video while I’m out bouldering alone.  For one reason or another the majority of the footage doesn’t end up on youtube.  Here’s some screenshots from my video footage from the last year:

Ring of Fire Right V2, FA - Whiskey Gulch, MT (Seq-knar spotting)


Peder's Demise V1 - Whiskey Gulch, MT


Better Eat Your Corndogs V6 - Lost Horse Canyon, MT


Inertia V6 - Whiskey Gulch, MT


the Kind V5 - RMNP, CO


Unnamed V6 - RMNP, CO


Aces High V4, FA - Cascade Creek, MT


Magnum V6 - Cascade Creek, MT

Breakdown V4, FA - Beartooths, MT


Project - Hollowtop Valley (Tobacco Roots), MT


Henry to EC - "WTF?"


Sunny Slab V0, FA - Beartooths, MT


A River Runs Through It V3, FA - Upper Mason Lake (Tobacco Roots), MT


the Topus V5 - Ibex, UT


Squeeze Problem V6 - the Poudre, CO (Full Disclosure - I didn't send...)

And last, but not least… my next post will be from here:

The Land of Milk and Honey - 4 days away.



Lost Horse Festival 2011

The Ho’s and I went over for the annual Lost Horse Festival outside of Hamilton, MT.  It was a little warm and a lot smokey, but we perservered and all three of us had a great day.  Ho was inspired by my last post and won the competition, Sarah climbed awesome (two V5s!) and got second place in the woman’s category behind local crusher Molly Rennie, and I had the best single day of bouldering in my life.  I did two old projects first go and sent three new “projects” quickly.  Here’s some photos:

the Ho-Mobile

The Taco Bus in Dillon - Amazing Mexican Food - GO HERE!

Smokey Bitterroot

Myself finishing up 'Spread Em Stand' (photo by SHo)

Ho falling asleep on V7

He's awake!

Sarah on the super-classic 'the Rail'

Myself on 'Montana Meathook' (photo by SHo)


The EC top-out (photo by SHo)

Ho on 'Beautiful People'

Ho and I finished out the weekend Sunday morning by getting crushed by the old-school slab classic ‘the Parrot’.  I actually have no idea if this is “old-school” but it seems that every climb like this is.  Both of us got it, but it did not go easily…

EC - 'the Parrot' (photo by Ho)

Ho - 'the Parrot'

Ho - 'the Parrot'

Ho - 'the Parrot'

EC - 'the Parrot' (photo by Ho)


EC - 'the Parrot' (photo by Ho)


Big Thanks to Corey Piersol for organizing such a cool gathering!



Sweathouse Creek

Brandon Rennie gave us a tour of Sweathouse Creek, south of Missoula, last Sunday.  It’s a nice cluster of granite boulders about a mile hike from the trailhead.  Good movement and good enough stone make it worth at least one trip.  Don’t miss “Chinese New Year” (V4), “Maverick” (V9) and everything on the Bear Grass Boulder.  Corey Piersol put together a nice guide and website for the area HERE.  Here’s a few photos from the day:

The crew showing the sequence for “Chinese New Year”



Brandon (Photo by SHo)

EC (photo by SHo)

EC (photo by SHo)

Jeff crushing "Maverick"

Jeff finishing up "Maverick" (photo by SHo)

Thanks again for the tour Brandon, it was lot’s of fun!



Went to the Bitterroot for the long 4th of July weekend and spent Saturday up at Lolo.  Jeff, Sarah and I got a tour from Levi and Brandon and we were also joined by Missoulians Jesse, Hannah and Ben.  Good time on crazy rock.  Photos:

Jeff working out the "Way of the Samurai"

Brandon starting out "Hooray for Boobies SDS"

The best move in Montana?

Levi showing how it's done on "Flying Lotus"

Sending "the Alchemist" quickly wasn't good enough for Jeff so he worked on the obvious low start to it. Next go for sure...

Stay tuned for day 2 presenting Sweathouse Creek…



Lost Horse Festival 2010

Headed out to the Lost Horse Climbing Festival over the weekend with a bunch of other Bozemaniacs.  Good times were had by all.  Brandon, Jarred and I even got a tour of the some of the goods up at Lolo thanks to local Sam Johnson.  Instead of too many specifics I’ll just say that everybody sent a lot of stuff (except for me at Lolo…).  Plus, y’all just want pictures anyway, right?  Here you go.

Holmer, Pat and Brandon showing the sequence on one of my favorite problems of all time, Montana Meathook V5 at Lost Horse.  All 3 flashed it with ease.

Holmer trying hard on the South Face of the John Wayne Boulder V7 at Lost Horse:

Holmer finishing up the Duke V4 at Lost Horse, another of my favorites:

Jarred sending Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 at Lolo (photo by Sam):

Jarred & Kelsey’s dog, Tisha, the cutest puppy ever (photo by Sam):

Brandon sending a V6-ish problem at Lolo that we were calling Dusl Driver in honor of Frank “I don’t get pumped any more, I just lose contact strength” Dusl.

Lastly, here’s a little vid that I shot Friday night of myself on MT Meathook.  I did it this spring pretty quickly so I was a little worried when I couldn’t even pull onto the wall at first.  Once I warmed up it went a little easier: