Category Archives: Utah

Bouldering and Ice-Less Ice Climbing

It’s been a busy last month for myself in terms of climbing related stuff.  November started off with a bang in the form of the 14th installment of Full Gravity Day.  Good times were had by all.  Here’s a few pics from finals:

Inge on Woman's Final #2

Inge on Woman’s Final #2

K-Fed (Men's 1st Place!) on Men's Final #2

K-Fed (Men’s 1st Place!) on Men’s Final #2

Jesse on Men's Final #2

Jesse on Men’s Final #2

Molly (Female 1st Place!) on Woman's Final #1

Molly (Female 1st Place!) on Woman’s Final #1

Ryan on Men's Final #1

Ryan on Men’s Final #1

 

Shortly after FGD I hit the road for my annual pilgrimage to desert sandstone.  I climbed at the usual suspects in Utah – Joe’s Valley, Triassic and Moe’s Valley.  The trip ended slightly sooner than expected, but I was able to chase the good weather around and get a lot of great climbs in.  Some photos/screenshots:

Bazooka Tooth V7, Moe's Valley, UT

Bazooka Tooth V7, Moe’s Valley, UT

Underwhelmed V6, Moe's Valley, UT

Underwhelmed V6, Moe’s Valley, UT

Isosceles V4, Joe's Valley, UT

Isosceles V4, Joe’s Valley, UT

the Dead Sea V8, Joe's Valley, UT

the Dead Sea V8, Joe’s Valley, UT

Immediately after sending the Dead Sea, which ended up being my main project, I headed slightly up the Left Fork to Sunshine Daydream, a really cool looking V7.  After a few minutes figuring out the beta I was sure I would do it quick.  Things did not go as expected.  I threw for a gaston crimp, stuck it for half a second, then barn-doored off and knew I was going to miss the pads and land in jumbled fist sized rocks from a decent height.  Somehow I stuck the landing and was elated that I didn’t break anything.  That passed quickly when I realized I had ripped off half my middle finger’s tip resulting in the worst flapper I’ve ever seen.  Well, at least I got to spend Thanksgiving at home for the first time in a few years…

Sunshine Daydream V7, Joe's Valley, UT

Sunshine Daydream V7, Joe’s Valley, UT (next move way up and left is the flapper ripper)

the flapper #1

the flapper #1

the flapper #2

the flapper #2

 

Luckily it healed up relatively quickly and I was able to get out for my annual (weather permitting) b-day circuit at Whiskey.  Ended up being a beautiful day and I surprised myself by climbing pretty well despite not climbing since UT and being quite tired from helping set up the walls for the World Cup Ice Comp at the Bozeman Ice Fest.  Hope y’all were able to make it out for the first Ice World Cup held in North America.  It was quite the show!

Root Down V1, Problem #7, forgot how scary this one is...

Root Down V1, Problem #7, forgot how scary this one is…

Emphysema Traverse V4, Problem #13

Emphysema Traverse V4, Problem #13

the Italian Job V5, Problem #27

the Italian Job V5, Problem #27

Top of the World Cup walls was the best view in downtown Bozeman for a few days...

Top of the World Cup walls was the best view in downtown Bozeman for a few days…

Canadian Gordon McArthur representing North America in the World Cup Finals - 4th Place Overall.

Canadian Gordon McArthur representing North America in the World Cup Finals – 4th Place Overall.

 

-EC

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How about some BOULDERING?

Still slacking on the ol’ B-log, so here’s the obligatory photo dump of bouldering shots from the last couple months.

the Hourglass V7, Leavenworth, WA

the Hourglass V7, Leavenworth, WA

Tin Man V6, Leavenworth, WA

Tin Man V6, Leavenworth, WA

Premium Coffee V7, Leavenworth, WA - Some of the coolest slopers ever.  I will be back for this one.  (photo by Marc "Off-Route" Corteau)

Premium Coffee V7, Leavenworth, WA – Some of the coolest slopers ever. I will be back for this one. (photo by Marc “Off-Route” Corteau)

Walter being Walter

Walter being Walter @ Full Gravity Day ’13

Kerrek

Kerrek @ Full Gravity Day ’13

Christine

Christine @ Full Gravity Day ’13

Herb

Herb @ Full Gravity Day ’13

There was a creepy clown gorilla.

There was a creepy clown gorilla @ Full Gravity Day ’13

 

the Sting V4, Red Rock, NV - Contender for best problem I've done on sandstone.  Joe and Sarah, do this one!

the Sting V4, Red Rock, NV – Contender for best problem I’ve done on sandstone. Joe and Sarah, do this one!

Lizards at Triassic, UT

Lizards at Triassic, UT

David - Lemonhead V6, Triassic, UT

David – Lemonhead V6, Triassic, UT

Christine @ Triassic, UT

Christine @ Triassic, UT

Nice spot Christine.

Nice spot Christine.

Quoia peeking out of her road trip den.

Quoia peeking out of her road trip den.

DJAJ - Boogie Nights V6, Triassic, UT

DJAJ – Boogie Nights V6, Triassic, UT

 

Classic Colorad-bro parking technique at Joe's.  We got yelled at by locals for parking like this for 45 seconds while loading up so I'm sure they appreciate Rad-Bros doing it for more than an hour.

Classic Colorad-bro parking technique at Joe’s. We got yelled at by locals for parking like this for 45 seconds while loading up so I’m sure they appreciate Rad-Bros doing it for more than an hour.

DJAJ - the Weak V3, Joe's Valley, UT

DJAJ – the Weak V3, Joe’s Valley, UT

Walter - Kinda Brawny V8, Joe's Valley, UT

Walter – Kinda Brawny V8, Joe’s Valley, UT

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Yep.

Yep.

Derv's battle cry.

Derv’s battle cry.

Also, here’s a short video of some of the sandstone classics I did in Nevada and Utah over my extended Thanksgiving trip.

 

 

-EC

 

SoEC: Part 2 – Maple

From Lander I went to Maple to meet up with the eternal dirt bags – the Groseths.  I haven’t sport climbed that much around the US, but even still, I can be pretty sure Maple is one of the more unique areas around.  It’s basically gym climbing outside – cobbles of all sizes litter the steep canyons.  It takes a little getting used to, but once you start to get comfortable it’s pretty rad!  Maple is mostly known for it’s mega-endurance routes and most crushers head straight for the Pipedream.  Not this guy!  I went straight to the Pipeline.  With rope stretching 35 foot pitches, the Pipeline was the perfect crag for me.  Just as long as you don’t mind hordes of SLC’ers on the weekends, I would highly recommend a trip to Maple.  It’s unlike anywhere else.

Photos:

Euro dirtbag?  Colorad-bro?  Nope, just the ITB.

Euro dirtbag? Colorad-bro? Nope, just the ITB.

Groseths at the Compound

Groseths at the Compound

Jess - 321  5.13a

Jess – 321 5.13a

Jess - 321  5.13a

Jess – 321 5.13a

Peder - Hammerhead 5.13b

Peder – Hammerhead 5.13b

Peder - Hammerhead 5.13b

Peder – Hammerhead 5.13b

EC - Ethan Screams 5.12c

EC – Ethan Screams 5.12c

Cobbles!

Cobbles!

Next up… the Fins?  Bolting the planet?  Maybe some bouldering? (gasp!)

Stay tuned…

 

-EC

 

the Valley of Joe

I made it down to Joe’s over Thanksgiving and so I don’t end up passing through December without a post here’s a few photos and vid from my time down there with a great crew:

Jarred - Planet of the Apes V6/7

Jarred – Planet of the Apes V6/7

Evan - Planet of the Apes V6/7

Evan – Planet of the Apes V6/7

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J-RAD

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Evan – Chips V6/7

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Jarred – Stand Up V7/8

Here’s a vid of a few of the better problems I completed:

 

I also spent a rest day at Arches National Park outside Moab, which I would highly recommend.  If you go, make sure to do the relatively short hike to Delicate Arch.  It was one of the coolest natural wonders I’ve seen.  Photos:

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Balanced Rock

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Delicate Arch

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Wall Street

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Wall Street

 

Happy Holidays!

-EC

Some Screenshots

As I mentioned before, I take a lot of video while I’m out bouldering alone.  For one reason or another the majority of the footage doesn’t end up on youtube.  Here’s some screenshots from my video footage from the last year:

Ring of Fire Right V2, FA - Whiskey Gulch, MT (Seq-knar spotting)

 

Peder's Demise V1 - Whiskey Gulch, MT

 

Better Eat Your Corndogs V6 - Lost Horse Canyon, MT

 

Inertia V6 - Whiskey Gulch, MT

 

the Kind V5 - RMNP, CO

 

Unnamed V6 - RMNP, CO

 

Aces High V4, FA - Cascade Creek, MT

 

Magnum V6 - Cascade Creek, MT

Breakdown V4, FA - Beartooths, MT

 

Project - Hollowtop Valley (Tobacco Roots), MT

 

Henry to EC - "WTF?"

 

Sunny Slab V0, FA - Beartooths, MT

 

A River Runs Through It V3, FA - Upper Mason Lake (Tobacco Roots), MT

 

the Topus V5 - Ibex, UT

 

Squeeze Problem V6 - the Poudre, CO (Full Disclosure - I didn't send...)

And last, but not least… my next post will be from here:

The Land of Milk and Honey - 4 days away.

 

-EC

Joe’s Valley – Part 3

The grand finale:

Jared on External Tulips

 

Kelsey on External Tulips

Jarred on Save Yourself Left

Jarred in Dairy Canyon

Ho on Lactation Station

 

Ho on Dirty Harry

 

Henry - Fiery Furnace

Ho - Fiery Furnace

Henry - Fiery Furnace

 

 

-EC

Joe’s Valley – Part 2

More Photos!

Ho - Battletoads

Henry - Playmate of the Year

Ho - Playmate...

Fletcher - Playmate...

Fletcher - Playmate...

Henry - Playmate...

Ho - Proppa Dyno

 

Ho - Proppa Dyno

Henry - Proppa Dyno

 

And A Video!

 

-EC