Category Archives: Utah

Bouldering and Ice-Less Ice Climbing

Posted on December 17, 2014 | Leave a comment

It’s been a busy last month for myself in terms of climbing related stuff. November started off with a bang in the form of the 14th installment of Full Gravity Day. Good times were had by all. Here’s a few pics from finals:

Inge on Woman’s Final #2

K-Fed (Men’s 1st Place!) on Men’s Final #2

Jesse on Men’s Final #2

Molly (Female 1st Place!) on Woman’s Final #1

Ryan on Men’s Final #1

Shortly after FGD I hit the road for my annual pilgrimage to desert sandstone. I climbed at the usual suspects in Utah – Joe’s Valley, Triassic and Moe’s Valley. The trip ended slightly sooner than expected, but I was able to chase the good weather around and get a lot of great climbs in. Some photos/screenshots:

Bazooka Tooth V7, Moe’s Valley, UT

Underwhelmed V6, Moe’s Valley, UT

Isosceles V4, Joe’s Valley, UT

the Dead Sea V8, Joe’s Valley, UT

Immediately after sending the Dead Sea, which ended up being my main project, I headed slightly up the Left Fork to Sunshine Daydream, a really cool looking V7. After a few minutes figuring out the beta I was sure I would do it quick. Things did not go as expected. I threw for a gaston crimp, stuck it for half a second, then barn-doored off and knew I was going to miss the pads and land in jumbled fist sized rocks from a decent height. Somehow I stuck the landing and was elated that I didn’t break anything. That passed quickly when I realized I had ripped off half my middle finger’s tip resulting in the worst flapper I’ve ever seen. Well, at least I got to spend Thanksgiving at home for the first time in a few years…

Sunshine Daydream V7, Joe’s Valley, UT (next move way up and left is the flapper ripper)

the flapper #1

the flapper #2

Luckily it healed up relatively quickly and I was able to get out for my annual (weather permitting) b-day circuit at Whiskey. Ended up being a beautiful day and I surprised myself by climbing pretty well despite not climbing since UT and being quite tired from helping set up the walls for the World Cup Ice Comp at the Bozeman Ice Fest. Hope y’all were able to make it out for the first Ice World Cup held in North America. It was quite the show!

Root Down V1, Problem #7, forgot how scary this one is…

Emphysema Traverse V4, Problem #13

the Italian Job V5, Problem #27

Top of the World Cup walls was the best view in downtown Bozeman for a few days…

Canadian Gordon McArthur representing North America in the World Cup Finals – 4th Place Overall.

-EC

How about some BOULDERING?

Posted on December 16, 2013 | Leave a comment

Still slacking on the ol’ B-log, so here’s the obligatory photo dump of bouldering shots from the last couple months.

the Hourglass V7, Leavenworth, WA

Tin Man V6, Leavenworth, WA

Premium Coffee V7, Leavenworth, WA – Some of the coolest slopers ever. I will be back for this one. (photo by Marc “Off-Route” Corteau)

Walter being Walter @ Full Gravity Day ’13

Kerrek @ Full Gravity Day ’13

Christine @ Full Gravity Day ’13

Herb @ Full Gravity Day ’13

There was a creepy clown gorilla @ Full Gravity Day ’13

the Sting V4, Red Rock, NV – Contender for best problem I’ve done on sandstone. Joe and Sarah, do this one!

Lizards at Triassic, UT

David – Lemonhead V6, Triassic, UT

Christine @ Triassic, UT

Nice spot Christine.

Quoia peeking out of her road trip den.

DJAJ – Boogie Nights V6, Triassic, UT

Classic Colorad-bro parking technique at Joe’s. We got yelled at by locals for parking like this for 45 seconds while loading up so I’m sure they appreciate Rad-Bros doing it for more than an hour.

DJAJ – the Weak V3, Joe’s Valley, UT

Walter – Kinda Brawny V8, Joe’s Valley, UT

Yep.

Derv’s battle cry.

Also, here’s a short video of some of the sandstone classics I did in Nevada and Utah over my extended Thanksgiving trip.

-EC

SoEC: Part 2 – Maple

Posted on July 1, 2013 | Leave a comment

From Lander I went to Maple to meet up with the eternal dirt bags – the Groseths. I haven’t sport climbed that much around the US, but even still, I can be pretty sure Maple is one of the more unique areas around. It’s basically gym climbing outside – cobbles of all sizes litter the steep canyons. It takes a little getting used to, but once you start to get comfortable it’s pretty rad! Maple is mostly known for it’s mega-endurance routes and most crushers head straight for the Pipedream. Not this guy! I went straight to the Pipeline. With rope stretching 35 foot pitches, the Pipeline was the perfect crag for me. Just as long as you don’t mind hordes of SLC’ers on the weekends, I would highly recommend a trip to Maple. It’s unlike anywhere else.

Photos: