Category Archives: New Whiskey

It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas…

We got in a couple more days at Whiskey before the snow came today.  I made a solo trip on Friday itchin’ for some new stuff.  I got my fix in the Red Valley, a short five minute walk from Tuna Juice.  I did a few problem there last winter and knew there could be a few more, but it ended up being a lot better than I remembered.  I put up seven new ones.  All were worthwhile, but two of them were well above average.  Here’s a couple screen shots of “Montana Cancan” a sweet V4 with a very cool dyno.  As a side note, I usually take a lot of video when I’m alone, but only put a little bit online, so I’ll start posting more screenshots from the vault.

Setting up

Montana Cancan

I had a pretty crazy work week so I was planning on working Saturday and heading back out Sunday.  Long story short, I shuffled things at work cause Sunday looked like crap (and it was…) and made it out Saturday afternoon.  I couldn’t believe it when I got there.  NINE CARS at Whiskey!  There were at least twenty different people out there.  There were about 10 Bozeman boulderers out there, so according to a recent Rock & Ice article every single boulderer from Bozeman was at Whiskey Saturday. While I’m on the subject, Jeff Ho got the FA of the Green Monster (vision & cleaning by Ryan Holm), Joe Meiners last name has two e’s in it and Fruh’s line in the Canyon is called “Der Fruh Lowe” not whatever they put.  Just a few of the errors…  Great photos by Ben Herndon though.

Anyways, I spent the day climbing with Peder, Jess, Molly and Brandon.  Shortly before I got there Peder and Jess continued their Whiskey crushfest with Peder getting the second ascent of Ho-masters “Just for Men” V9 and Jess finishing off the Emphysema Traverse Low V4+.  Jess also crushed her season long project “CCC” V5.  Pretty cool to see her put that one down.

Jess sending CCC

After that I talked them into heading to the Red Valley.  We started on a problem that I put up last winter, Full Gravity Daze V?.  It’s a great compression arete with the one of the coolest moves I’ve done for the crux.  It’s a giant reach to a tiny crimp above the lip off of a toe hook.  Unfortunately the crux and even the move before the crux is very height dependent.  It wasn’t too bad for Peder and I, but everyone else who is shorter than 6′ struggled with the crux.

Molly on the first reachy move of Full Gravity Daze

Jess - Full Gravity Daze

Brandon - Full Gravity Daze

Molly on the reachy crux of Full Gravity Daze

Peder - Full Gravity Daze

Peder sticking the crux - Full Gravity Daze

Molly just about sent a nearby project as well.  Next go for sure.

Peder on the project

Molly on the project

 

We finished up on Montana Cancan with a few sends of the namesake.  Molly also added a nice V5/6-ish problem just right of Montana Cancan (it’s the diagonal seam/finger crack cut off on the right side of the first two photos).  She said I should name it so unless I hear otherwise, we’ll go with “Slots of Doom”.  Always like the Doom theme at Whiskey…

K-Fed (Kevin Macartney) put up some good photos of the crew he was climbing with as well.  Click me.

-EC

Even More Whiskey

 

It’s the best kind of drunk… Whiskey drunk.  And let me tell you, we’ve been trashed since Thanksgiving.  I’ve gotten out with Peder and Jessica Groseth quite a bit in the last couple weeks and all three of us have taken advantage of the abnormally nice weather (for boulderers at least).  We’ve had a nice balance of old stuff, new established and new FAs.  Jess has probably had the best tick list with sends of the classic V2/3/4/5’s Wave Runner, Emphysema Traverse and Globe Trotter.  Peder tore through everything at the End of the Road and even added a couple cool new problems.  He also got the likely second ascent of Capsule for One V9 at the Urinal.  I managed to finish up my last “do-able project” by finishing up the ultra-classic Fe Fi Fo Fum V7.  I guess I need to find something new or get a little stronger for the super projects.  Here’s some phtotos from the last coulple weeks as well as a vid of myself on Fe Fi Fo Fum.  Jess has some great photos up on her blog as well.  Check ’em out!

Peder - Relish the Dog

Jess - Strawberry Shortcake's Alcohol Infused Anger

 

Peder - Strawberry Shortcake's Alcohol Infused Anger

 

Jess - Emphysema Traverse

 

Peder - Globe Trotter

 

Photographic proof of Jess doing a toe-hook on Globe Trotter

 

Jon running another lap on Caught in the Act

 

Jon - Just for Men

 

Peder - the Thing

 

-EC

28 @ Whiskey

Last Saturday was my 28th Birthday.  In honor of myself, I did a circuit of 28 of my favorite problems.  I’ve wanted to do this for the last few years, but the odds are usually against bouldering any given day in December in Montana.  I lucked out this year, with absolutely perfect weather.  Probably the nicest conditions I’ve ever had at Whiskey.  I climbed all but two of the problems in a t-shirt.  Here’s my 28:

#1)  Daddy Bear V0 – This problem and the next five are all on the Family Wall.  If you’ve never been to it, you should .  My favorite warm-ups at Whiskey.

#2)  Little Nosey Girl Who Should Have Minded Her Manners V0

#3)  Grumpy Old Men V1

#4)  Local Legrand V1

#5)  Mama Bear V3

#6)  Baby Bear V2

#7)  Bon V0

#8)  Osteoporosis V3

#9)  Deltoids of Doom V4

#10)  Emphysema Traverse V4

#11)  Hail Mary V2

#12)  Hail Ben V0

#13)  Afterburner V3

#14)  Reign of Fire V5

#15)  Slashface V0

#16)  Relish the Dog V4

#17)  Blackened V0

#18)  Urinal Cake V0

#19)  Strawberry Shortcake’s Alcohol Infused Anger V4

#20)  Little Debbie’s Fried Chicken Fury V4+

#21)  the Italian Job V5

#22)  the Cornballer V2

#23)  Globe Trotter V3 – This is where things started to feel hard.

#24)  Young Jedi  V0+++

#25)  CCC V5 – I had fight to top this one out.  Definitely lost my power endurance by this point.

#26)  Hairy Palms V2/3/4 – Just about gave up on this, but figured out a slightly better way on my last ditch effort.

#27)  Fear of Friction V0

#28)  Wave Rider V1 – My only failure of the day.  While I was figuring out the 28 I wanted to do, I knew that I wanted to finish with Wave Runner.  I tried it a few times and pretty much got worse each go, no endurance at all.  I had to settle for Wave Rider.

 

Also, here’s a video of a few Whiskey classics I did in the fall:

 

Lastly, and easily the best – the Whitehall forecast for the weekend:

As Alek says, “Drink It Up”

 

-EC