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Spring Fling on Friday!

10 from ’10 and 11 for ’11

Alright, here it is, my funeral for 2010.  Since I love lists, I figure I’ll just put together a couple lists of favorites problems and places from 2010 and the same lists for climbs and areas I’d like to do and go to in 2011.  Without further ado:

Favorite Problems (basically didn’t rope up last year, so no routes) of 2010:

-Hobbit in a Blender, Hueco Tanks.  This was probably the hardest I have ever tried on a problem.  I literally screamed every move for the first ten or so moves until I was on the easy top-out slab.

-Hershey’s Symphony, Hueco Tanks.  Amazing highball boulder problem (practically a route).  You have a pad under you for the crux, but then there’s another 25 feet of climbing in a corridor that’s impossible to protect.  One of my all time favorites.

-Montana Meathook, Lost Horse.  I’d always held off from trying this because of the intimidating pit and the grade.  Turns out it was a little soft and nearly impossible to fall into the pit.  Great problem.  Me repeating it in the fall:


-One Way Ticket to Midnight, Lower Mason Lake, Tobacco Roots.  My proudest FA by far.  2 hour drive, 1 hour hike, middle of a giant talus field, alone, crappy landing, one pad, high mantle, amazing.  Last problem in the vid below:


-Fire in the Hole, Cascade Creek.  Another FA, but this one didn’t have any spice.  The direct top-out is easier and probably the better line for most, but I just really like the movement on this one.


-Tweeker, Whiskey Gulch.  Definitely not one of the best problems I did, but very satisfying because I’d been trying it ever since my first trip to Whiskey many moons ago.  Mega-sandbag.

-Lava Lunge Traverse, Cascade Creek.  Desperate problem for me.  It’s a sit start from the right into the Lava Lunge.  I could do the dyno and the traverse seperately nearly every time, but it took me three days of work to actually link them together.  Stuck the dyno with my fingertips.

-Fridge Center, Leavenworth.  Killer moves and perfect height.  Deployed a little extra try hard and flashed it.

-Old and Serious,  Squamish.  Was really suprised how amazing this problem was.  Another all time favorite.

-Ripper Point, Cody.  This was a big break-through problem for me.  A few years ago this was in the impossible category for me.  It’s the first problem I’ve  sent that I thought was impossible in the past.

11 Problems for 2011:

-Planet of the Apes, Joe’s Valley, UT.  Started working it the last day of the Thanksgiving trip and fell off the mantle completely gassed on the last go of the day.

-Orange Roughy, Old Baldy, SD.  Fell off the last move in the 95 degree heat of mid-summer.  If I can get back with semi-decent conditions it should go down easy.

-Seven Spanish Angels, Bishop, CA.

-Sheepherder, Bishop, CA.  My mental project for my upcoming trip.

-High Plains Drifter, CA.  Gotta’ dream…

-Duke Traverse, Lost Horse, MT

-Lava Lunge SDS, Cascade Creek, MT

-the Punisher Crack, Tobacco Roots, MT

-Millipede, Horse Pens 40, AL.  Mmmmm, slopers…

-China Crisis, Bozeman Pass, MT.  Should go quick if I actually try.

-the Great White Behemoth, Ten Sleep, WY.  The most aesthetic route I’ve ever seen.


Where I went in 2010 (outside of MT):

-Hueco Tanks, TX.  A little over-rated, but I still want to go back ASAP.

-Joshua Tree, CA

-Red Rock, NV.  Kraft boulders suck.

-Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT.  Got my tech on.

-Ibex, UT

-Joe’s Valley, UT.  Great crew.

-Cody, WY

-Mt. Rushmore (Old Baldy), SD

-Leavenworth, WA.  The Joe’s Valley of the NW.

-Squamish, BC, Canada.  The most amazing setting of any climbing area I’ve ever been to.

-Triassic, UT.  Under-rated.

Where I want to go in 2011:

-Bishop, CA.  Should be going for about 2 weeks near the end of Feb.  Fifth season in a row.  Hopefully that streak never ends.

-Ten Sleep, WY.  Need to get back to the buttery sickness.

-Black Hills, SD.  Psyched on the bouldering, but I’d like to rope up some as well.  There’s gold in them thar hills.

-Ibex, UT

-Joe’s Valley, UT.  Unfinished business…

-the Dirty South.  Planning on doing a three week trip to the south in Nov/Dec.  HP 40, AL, Little Rock City, TN, and Rocktown, GA.  So psyched.



The Joys of Off-Width

Hopefully, I’ll post up about recent climbing, but for now here’s a classy video.  This pretty much sums it up.  “I guess if you climb enough off-widths, one of these days, you’re gonna get your knee stuck and shit your pants.”

the Cataracts

I went to the Cataract Boulders yesterday and wanted to climb this boulder:

Well, I got there and it looked a little different… it was under 3 feet of water.  The reservoir has slowly been rising for the last few weeks, but I didn’t expect it to reach the boulder.  It’d be pretty fun on a hot day, though, shallow water bouldering.  Here’s what it looked like yesterday, from a slightly different angle:

Anyway, the idea was to warm-up for a project that I’d tried a few weeks ago, so I had to find something else.  I decided to try a arete traverse that I scoped figuring it’d be an ok easy problem.  After about a half hour figuring out the beta, I realized it wasn’t going to be a V0 warm-up.  It ended up being a great V4-ish problem that I called Echoes.  It climbs just like a Little Cottonwood arete, slopey lip traverse, crappy feet, and really technical.  My favorite problem at the Cataracts so far.  I even got some decent video of it.  Hope you enjoy it.

Tomorrow, I’m heading to SD to visit family, boulder in the Black Hill, and maybe even get some golf in.  I’m super psyched for the Black Hills.  It’s a pretty nostalgic place for me since that’s where we used to always go on vacation when I was young.  I’ve gotten in a few days of roped climbing, but I haven’t really touched any of the good bouldering, so we’ll see how it goes.  I should have some vids when I get back, so stay tuned for more.


Last Cody Vid

I just got back from Spire, my first time climbing since I hurt my knee.  I felt pretty good.  I didn’t really try anything too hard, but I felt good on the easier stuff I tried.  I decided to start climbing a few days early because this weekend’s weather is looking really good and we’ve got a new area to develop (should be a lot more on this in the future…).

Anyways, here’s the last of my vids from Cody.  It includes the Tuk & Meat Hook on the super classic Antelope Boulder, Meet My Bruncle, and the Pulaski.  The Pulaski was a memorable problem for me because it was my first V6 and it was the problem that I tore my meniscus on (I tore it trying the sit start with a heel hook).  I’ve done a few problems “rated” V6 (Pocket Rocket at Joe’s for example), but this was the first one that actually felt harder than anything else I’ve done.  I think it’s low end V6, but I’ll take it.



New Whiskey Bouldering, Work in Progress

I made this site mostly as a way to share the 150 (give or take) new problems at Whiskey Gulch, Montana that I know about. I’m hoping to have most of the guide finished and on here by this summer so stay tuned. For now, I’ve put up a video of one of the best new problems at Whiskey, “the Cornballer.” Also, if you did manage to somehow find this site and you want to go climb some new problems, let me know.