Butte Bash & Cascade Creek

It’s been a couple weeks since my last post. Here’s the bullet points.
-Butte Bouldering Bash last weekend. Lots of fun problems with lots of fun people. I managed to do quite a few problems that I’ve been seeing photos of over on montanabouldering.com. The highlight of the day was watching Fruh send a new semi-highball problem near the shoe demo tents. I think it may be a long, long while before that one sees a second ascent. For some reason I didn’t bring my camera so I didn’t get any photos but there’s quite a few here.
The Northern Bourbons saw another futuristic ascent next to the Sportiva tent as well. Brandon Smith sent Loren Rausch’s long standing project, naming it the Cockulator. If I had to guess, I would say Loren tried it 14,000 times that day before B came in and showed him how it’s done. On a more serious note, major congrats to Brandon for sending the Bozeman 5.13 testpiece Straw Man in the Gallatin Canyon a few days ago. Nice work B!
I went back out to the No. Bourbons this morning to try some lines that I didn’t get a chance to try during the Bash. I was gunning for Lateral Dyno and Special Reserve. I managed to flash Lateral Dyno without much of a warm-up. I think the feet on it have cleaned up a little, producing a good left foot in the perfect spot. It felt more like V3/4 to me. But, it is a dyno, so who knows? Grades aside, it was a really fun problem. Special Reserve put up much more of a fight. Didn’t get it, but I think it will go with a little more effort.

-Friday Ho and I made it up to the Cascade Creek boulders below Lava Lake that I “discovered” a few weeks ago. There’s a few faint patches of chalk and a couple lines that have obviously been cleaned (most likely by Brad Carpenter) but I would guess no ones bouldered there in many years. Still tons of FA potential and some good looking second ascents to be had.
Anyways, we only climbed at one little cave/overhang. We did 3 new lines that all finish with the best dyno I’ve ever done. Seriously, it’s a perfect dyno: obvious start holds, good feet, perfect distance, perfect landing, great lip to catch, and a really fun mantle to finish it off. In my book, it’s on par with Pocket Rocket in Joe’s Valley, except it’s got a better mantle. Jeff added a burly sit start (V7-ish) and an obvious traverse (V5-ish) into the dyno. I fell off the dyno a couple times from the traverse start, but it will definitely fall for me next time. Without further ado, here is the Lava Lunge and the Lava Lunge SDS:

Jeff on the FA of the Lava Lunge Traverse:

Not including link-ups, there are about three more lines left. Ho tried two of them a little so you know they won’t go down too easily. There’s another steep boulder just below it that should produce 3 or 4 short problems as well. I showed Ho the other boulders higher up that should produce another 20-30 problems, with some killer lines possible. Once the temps cool down in Send-tember we’re going to get a crew and head up to the upper boulders. Let me know if you want in. Looks like it supposed to be great temps tomorrow, then hot, hot, hot for a few days so hopefully everyone can get out tomorrow and send!
-EC

the Mason Boulders

Since the last post on the alpine blocs, I’ve made it up to the Mason Boulders three times. While they aren’t going to be the mecca I was hoping for, they will definitely be a lot of fun for a long time. Last weekend Joe and I went to the Lower Mason Boulders. Unfortunately, it was pretty hot, so we avoided the talus and stayed in the trees developing a large boulder, the Mosquito Boulder. We put up about 8 new problems from V1 to about V5, with most being average quality. The one standout was “Deet” a V4 that Joe did. Dead vertical with good hand holds and poor feet. I got video of Joe doing it, see below.
I made two more solo trips since then. I went exploring at Upper Mason Lake with my light pad, since I wasn’t sure what I was going to find. I would say there isn’t as much potential in the Upper Mason talus as the Lower Mason talus, but I did find some good looking boulders below the lake on the way out. Because I was alone with a smaller pad, I had a hard time finding anything worth climbing that had a decent landing. I got lucky and found a sweet, steep compression problem on nearly perfect rock. It went at about V3 and there is an even lower start about five feet down that I didn’t try b/c of the pad situation. I called it “A River Runs Through It” (I could hear a stream running underneath it) and it’s also in the vid below. Here’s a pic of the talus and cliffs above Upper Mason Lake. I don’t care what kind of climbing you like, if you can’t find something to climb here, you’re not trying.

Lastly, I made a trip up into the Lower Mason talus the other day to check out the upper cluster. I ended up doing one of the best problems I’ve ever done. It’s slightly overhanging moves on perfect rock to a terrific (terrifying?) mantle on good slopers. If the landing were perfect, it might not be an issue, but its pretty uneven with a large rock, snow, and a fallen tree underneath it. Anticipating the snow, I brought a shovel and was able to fill in a lot of the gaps, but I still didn’t want to test an uncontrolled fall. After a few tries I made it to the lip, committed to the mantle, and topped it out “One Way Ticket to Midnight”. Although it was one of my proudest moments bouldering, it may not have been the smartest thing, considering the somewhat remote location. It’s about V3, but I think it would be at least a grade harder for anyone shorter than me. I also did a cool little arete on the same boulder that it pretty much a slab dyno. I wanted to do another problem before I headed back and it was the only thing with a good landing. Luckily, it ended up being a lot better than I thought it would be. Both are included in the vid:

Although the temps were much better the last two trips, I’m might hold off on the next trip for a couple weeks for even better conditions. There’s definitely some hard-man potential in the cluster with “OWTTM” Here’s a couple more photos from the last few weeks.
My new truck at the parking area for the Mason Boulders:

Cataract Reservoir and the road to the Mason Boulders:

Also, I hope everyone is planning on going to the Butte Bouldering Bash next Saturday, August 14 at the Northern Bourbons. Even if you aren’t big on comps, it should be a fun time with lots of terrific people. Hope to see you there!
-EC

The Joys of Off-Width

Hopefully, I’ll post up about recent climbing, but for now here’s a classy video.  This pretty much sums it up.  “I guess if you climb enough off-widths, one of these days, you’re gonna get your knee stuck and shit your pants.”