Bouldering Montana

Summer Summary

Posted on October 13, 2014 | 2 comments

This blog’s not quite dead yet. As usual, I spent the summer climbing on ropes rather than over crash pads. I’d like to say that’s why I don’t post, but the posts don’t seem too much more frequent during bouldering season. Well, it may just be a quarterly blog. Deal with it. All 7 of you. Here’s some photos from the last 4 months or so:

EC – Happy Colored Marbles V2, FA – Boulder River Boulders, Mile 18

4th of July celebrations at Chestnut

Ho – Overhangatang V5 – Hyalite Canyon

EC – Overhangatang V5 – Hyalite Canyon (photo by Ho)

: EC – the Gravy Train 5.12b/c – Ten Sleep Canyon (photo by Ho)

SHo – Soft in the Middle 5.11c – Gallatin Canyon

Leslie – the Solace of Bolted Faces 5.12a – Wild Iris

Chris – the Devil Wears Spurs 5.10d – Wild Iris

Leslie – Limestone Cowboy 5.12a – Wild Iris

Wild Iris

EC – Don’t Bring Your Guns to Town 5.12c – Wild Iris (photo by Chris Ennis)

Chris – High Plains Drifter 5.10c – Wild Iris

Jess – the Terrible V7 – Leavenworth

EC – Cattleguard Arete V8 – Leavenworth

EC – Andy’s Arete V5 – Leavenworth

Peder – Crimpsqueek V7 – Leavenworth

Jess – Footless Traverse V5 – Leavenworth

EC – WAS V8 – Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

Peder – Premium Coffee V7 – Leavenworth

EC – the Beach Arete V2 – Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

-EC

2 Comments

Posted in Beartooths, Hyalite Canyon, Northwest, Ten Sleep, Wild Iris

Yankee Jim and the Bitterroot

Posted on June 2, 2014 | 1 comment

About time for my bi-monthly blog post… Well, it’s been a pretty nice spring here in SW Montana. Had to chase the good temps here and there but nothing to complain about (except ticks!). A few weeks ago I was pretty psyched on Yankee Jim. I managed to put down a couple fun new-to-me problems that I’d never climbed at the Locomotives – Mr. Leslie and Lightweight, both V6 and both highly recommended.

But, the main event was across the river – Montana’s Most Wanted. This amazing problem is on the far west side of the Campground. It was a fairly under the radar project for a long time before somebody climbed it a couple years ago and officially opened it to the masses. Pat Dyess may have done it first but he’s a ginger so he is not to be trusted. I spent one perfect day figuring out the moves and trying it from the start for a few hours. By the time I figured out the moves I was already worn out so I couldn’t quite put it together. But, I came back a few days later and put ‘er down first try. One of the best around! I finished up the day by climbing a new problem put up by Tony Chang in the talus west of MMW – Genghis Tron V5. It’s another great problems with an awesome landing thanks to the hard work of Tony (and possibly others).

Lightweight V6-ish

Crux move on Montana’s Most Wanted V7

Genghis Tron V5

Last week I was able to get out of town for a couple days. I’d been wanting to go somewhere all spring with the top choices being Lander or Cody but I’ve been really busy so they never quite materialized. I decided a quick trip to the Bitterroot was in order. One day in Lolo, one day in Lost Horse, three goals – Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo), Lock Off Lichen Lips V6 (LoHo) and Big Chuck V6 (LoHo). With a lot of sweat spent and a lot of skin lost (mostly at Lolo) I was able to climb all three problems! Big Chuck is good, Lock Off is better, and Boobies is another one of the best. Hooray for Boobies SDS is a couple moves into the best dyno ever followed by one of coolest mantels ever. What more could you ask for?

Snagging the dyno on Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo)

trying Succubus V7 (Lolo)

Lolo Rock

Big Chuck V6 (Lost Horse)

Lastly here a little vid I put together of three Montana classics (mentioned above) that I climbed this spring – Montana’s Most Wanted, Lock Off Lichen Lips and Hooray for Boobies SDS:

-EC

1 Comment

Posted in Bitterroot, Yankee Jim Canyon

Neat Rock Boulders

Posted on March 24, 2014 | Leave a comment

Loren, Bridget and I made it out to the Neat Rock Boulder in the Madison Valley yesterday. They were only in town on Sunday and the forecast didn’t look good but we went out anyways. It was a bit chilly warming up in the morning, but it slowly turned into a perfect day. The sun popped out every once in a while which was great to bask in, but not long enough to heat up the slick rock. We did a sweet little circuit on Lolo’s old stomping ground hitting up most of the classics. I think I’ve said this before, but y’all should really hit up the Neat Boulders if you haven’t. It’s not the largest area, but there’s some real gems out there!

We finished up the day on the Butterfly Effect, a classic two-mover V5/6 that Loren put up years ago. While we were trying it I joked to Loren about doing a variation going up and right avoiding the jug finish of the Butterfly Effect. Upon further inspection, it actually went! I was able to decipher the moves and put it together just before we called it a day – the Lolo Effect V6, named after the man himself.

Photo from the day: