Full Gravity Day 13!!!

Hope y’all are ready for the comp of the century… Full Gravity Day 13!  Saturday, November 9 at Spire Climbing Center.  Be there or be square.  More info here.

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See you there,

EC

 

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I’m Back!

Guess what I did the other day?  Went bouldering… in Montana!  First time in many months that’s happened.  Got into the bad habit of sport climbing.  Don’t worry, I’ve just about kicked it.  An upcoming week or two at the mecca of Smith Rock ought to do the trick.  Here’s some pics from the summer of sport climbing:

Myself on Yukon Gold 5.12b @ the Fins, ID

Myself on Yukon Gold 5.12b @ the Fins, ID (photo by SHo)

SHo on Sonic Rainboom 5.12b FA @ the BBC, MT

SHo on the FA of Sonic Rainboom 5.12b @ the BBC, MT

Myself on the Great White Behemoth 5.12b @ Ten Sleep, WY

Myself on the Great White Behemoth 5.12b @ Ten Sleep, WY (photo by J-RAD)

J-RAD on Khyberspace 5.13a/b @ Ten Sleep, WY

J-RAD on Khyberspace 5.13a/b @ Ten Sleep, WY

Dusl on 2 Wycked 5.12c @ the BBC, MT

Dusl on 2 Wycked 5.12c @ the BBC, MT

Myself on Strangely Compelled 5.12a @ Ten Sleep, WY

Myself on Strangely Compelled 5.12a @ Ten Sleep, WY (photo by Leslie)

Leslie on Happiness in Slavery 5.12b @ Ten Sleep, WY

Leslie on Happiness in Slavery 5.12b @ Ten Sleep, WY

Pockets @ the Fins

Pockets @ the Fins

 

We lost a great person this summer.  This one's for you K-Bone.

We lost a great person this summer. This one’s for you K-Bone.

Since it is officially bouldering season here’s a few pics from last season to get you psyched:

Derveed on a new Sick Proj @ Whiskey.

Derveed on a new Sick Proj @ Whiskey.

Ho on the new Sick Proj @ Whiskey.

Ho on the new Sick Proj @ Whiskey.

Ho on the old Sick Proj @ Whiskey.

Ho on the old Sick Proj @ Whiskey.

I know I’ve said this before, but hopefully the posts will be slightly more frequent.

 

-EC

 

SoEC: Part 2 – Maple

From Lander I went to Maple to meet up with the eternal dirt bags – the Groseths.  I haven’t sport climbed that much around the US, but even still, I can be pretty sure Maple is one of the more unique areas around.  It’s basically gym climbing outside – cobbles of all sizes litter the steep canyons.  It takes a little getting used to, but once you start to get comfortable it’s pretty rad!  Maple is mostly known for it’s mega-endurance routes and most crushers head straight for the Pipedream.  Not this guy!  I went straight to the Pipeline.  With rope stretching 35 foot pitches, the Pipeline was the perfect crag for me.  Just as long as you don’t mind hordes of SLC’ers on the weekends, I would highly recommend a trip to Maple.  It’s unlike anywhere else.

Photos:

Euro dirtbag?  Colorad-bro?  Nope, just the ITB.

Euro dirtbag? Colorad-bro? Nope, just the ITB.

Groseths at the Compound

Groseths at the Compound

Jess - 321  5.13a

Jess – 321 5.13a

Jess - 321  5.13a

Jess – 321 5.13a

Peder - Hammerhead 5.13b

Peder – Hammerhead 5.13b

Peder - Hammerhead 5.13b

Peder – Hammerhead 5.13b

EC - Ethan Screams 5.12c

EC – Ethan Screams 5.12c

Cobbles!

Cobbles!

Next up… the Fins?  Bolting the planet?  Maybe some bouldering? (gasp!)

Stay tuned…

 

-EC

 

the Summer of EC – Part 1: SD, MN & Lander

Early in May, I received an unexpected, indefinite break from work so I thought I’d better take advantage and go on a road trip.  I was going “home” to South Dakota anyway for a quick weekend trip.  That weekend trip morphed into a 4 week (mostly) sport climbing extravaganza.

While I was in Sioux Falls, I managed to get out to one of the two climbing areas near town, Blue Mounds State Park, which is about 45 minutes east of SF in Minnesota.  Yes, there is some climbing near Sioux Falls!  While Blue Mounds is quite a destination area, I would highly recommend it if you ever find yourself in eastern SoDak or western Minnesota.  The climbing is on super slick quartz – zero friction!  There was one boulder there that I’ve wanted to climb on for at least a few years, ever since I first saw photos of it on the ol’ interweb – the Quarry Boulder.  This giant boulder sits in the middle of an old quarry that provided much of the material for local building about a century ago.  It’s easily one of the more aesthetic boulders I’ve seen, especially in the midwest!

the Quarry Boulder - Blue Mounds State Park, MN

the Quarry Boulder – Blue Mounds State Park, MN

the Quarry - Blue Mounds State Park, MN

the Quarry – Blue Mounds State Park, MN

From there I went to Lander, WY for some good old fashioned sport climbing.  But, I couldn’t leave SD without showing Sequoia the greatest tourist trap in the universe – Wall Drug.  She was impressed.

Wall Drug!

Wall Drug!

Onward to Lander…  Inge and Leslie were kind enough to let me slum it up with them for a couple weeks in Wyoming.  I’ve never climbed around Lander and as I was expecting it was a blast.  Tons of amazing climbs of all styles.  We mostly climbed at Sinks Canyon, but were able to sneak in a couple days at the Wild Iris before leaving.  Some of my favorites of the trip:  Second Hand Nova 5.11a, Face Dancer 5.11b, Put Down Your Ducky 5.8, Weasels Ripped My Flesh 5.12b, and Zorro 5.11d.    Photos:

Inge - Animal Sounds 5.12b

Inge – Animal Sounds 5.12b

Inge - Dogs of War 5.13b

Inge – Dogs of War 5.13b

EC - Full Irations 5.12a (photo by Inge)

EC – Full Irations 5.12a (photo by Inge)

Leslie - Corner Drug 5.11a

Leslie – Corner Drug 5.11a

Leslie - Blue Moon 5.12a

Leslie – Blue Moon 5.12a

EC - Spook Eyes 5.12b (photo by Leslie)

EC – Spook Eyes 5.12b (photo by Leslie)

Next up Cobble-ville, UT…

-EC

Spring Fling ’13

Spring Fling happened.  It was fun.  Routes were climbed.  Kevin and Leigh won.  Congrats!  Photos were taken:

Lots o' holds...

Lots o’ holds…

Ho in the process of climbing nearly every route while setting.

Ho in the process of climbing nearly every route while setting.

 

Matt and Walter looking good.

Matt and Walter looking good.

Alex doing what he does.

Alex doing what he does.

B doing what he does.

B doing what he does.

Kevin finishing up the roof while DJAJ kicks out the jams.

Kevin finishing up the roof while DJAJ kicks out the jams.

 

-EC

Hueco Tanks

Made the long journey down to Texas to boulder at Hueco Tanks a couple weeks ago.  The trip was hampered due to a very unfortunate ankle break in the group, but I still managed to take some photos:

Ho - Power of Silence V10

Ho – Power of Silence V10

Ho - Power of Silence V10

Ho – Power of Silence V10

SHo - Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2

SHo – Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2

SHo - Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2

SHo – Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2

EC -  See Spot Run V6 (photo by SHo)

EC – See Spot Run V6 (photo by SHo)

Ho - Dark Age V11

Ho – Dark Age V11

EC - Ghetto Simulator V2 (photo by SHo)

EC – Ghetto Simulator V2 (photo by SHo)

EC - Ghetto Simulator V2 (photo by SHo)

EC – Ghetto Simulator V2 (photo by SHo)

Leslie - Ostracizer V3

Leslie – Ostracizer V3

EC - Hector in a Blender V6/7 (photo by Ho)

EC – Hector in a Blender V6/7 (photo by Ho)

EC - Hector in a Blender V6/7 (photo by Ho)

EC – Hector in a Blender V6/7 (photo by Ho)

SHo - Brutus V5 (photo by Ho)

SHo – Brutus V5 (photo by Ho)

Ho - Full Service V10

Ho – Full Service V10

Ho - Full Service V10

Ho – Full Service V10

Ho - Dragonfly V5

Ho – Dragonfly V5

Ho - Dragonfly V5

Ho – Dragonfly V5

SHo - Dragonfly V5

SHo – Dragonfly V5

Leslie - Bawl and Chain V0

Leslie – Bawl and Chain V0

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-EC

And now for something completely different…

Last Saturday Loren talked me into heading up to Hyalite Canyon to belay him on his mixed project.  To be honest, it didn’t take much prodding – Hyalite is possibly my favorite place in the Bozeman area and I don’t spend enough time up there in the winter.  On top of that, I was curious about this whole mixed climbing thing.  Since we were heading to Billings for a comp (keep reading…) I didn’t really want to rope up, but I was happy enjoying the canyon while belaying Loren.  Here’s a few photos from the morning and a video of one of Loren’s attempts on ‘Northwest Passage.’  Make sure you watch it til’ the end…

Roping up for battle in the Bingo Cave

Roping up for battle in the Bingo Cave

Lowering off 'Northwest Passage'

Lowering off ‘Northwest Passage’

 

As I mentioned, we finished up at Hyalite, drove back to town, picked up Sarah, then headed straight to Billings for the Montana Bouldering Championships at Steepworld.  Somehow we ended up with a car full of winners – Loren and I tied for top Men’s Amateur (aka scamateur) and Sarah won Woman’s Open.  Congrats SHo!  I didn’t take any photos during the main comp, but here some crappy shots I took during finals:

Dominic crushing the super-final on his way to victory.

Dominic crushing the super-final on his way to victory.

Charlie on the super-final.

Charlie on the super-final.

SHo earning her belt buckle woman's final #2

SHo earning her belt buckle woman’s final #2

Becky on woman's #1 and K-Fed on men's #1

Becky on woman’s #1 and K-Fed on men’s #1

SHo on woman's #1

SHo on woman’s #1

Walter on men's #1

Walter on men’s #1

 

-EC