Category Archives: Whiskey Proper

Even More Whiskey

 

It’s the best kind of drunk… Whiskey drunk.  And let me tell you, we’ve been trashed since Thanksgiving.  I’ve gotten out with Peder and Jessica Groseth quite a bit in the last couple weeks and all three of us have taken advantage of the abnormally nice weather (for boulderers at least).  We’ve had a nice balance of old stuff, new established and new FAs.  Jess has probably had the best tick list with sends of the classic V2/3/4/5’s Wave Runner, Emphysema Traverse and Globe Trotter.  Peder tore through everything at the End of the Road and even added a couple cool new problems.  He also got the likely second ascent of Capsule for One V9 at the Urinal.  I managed to finish up my last “do-able project” by finishing up the ultra-classic Fe Fi Fo Fum V7.  I guess I need to find something new or get a little stronger for the super projects.  Here’s some phtotos from the last coulple weeks as well as a vid of myself on Fe Fi Fo Fum.  Jess has some great photos up on her blog as well.  Check ’em out!

Peder - Relish the Dog

Jess - Strawberry Shortcake's Alcohol Infused Anger

 

Peder - Strawberry Shortcake's Alcohol Infused Anger

 

Jess - Emphysema Traverse

 

Peder - Globe Trotter

 

Photographic proof of Jess doing a toe-hook on Globe Trotter

 

Jon running another lap on Caught in the Act

 

Jon - Just for Men

 

Peder - the Thing

 

-EC

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Yep, More Whiskey

Had a great weekend at Whiskey.  Went out solo on Sat. and then with about a dozen good friends on Sunday.  Tons o’ fun.  Here’s some photos:

Jonny on Fear of Friction

Marge - Wave Runner

K-Bone - Wave Runner

Phil - Wave Runner

Jessica - Wave Runner

Jon - 50-Cent Dyno

Ho - Caught in the Act

K-Bone - Grumpy Old Men

Marge checking out the Family Wall

Marge - Grumpy Old Men

Hope you enjoyed ’em Isaac.  Just pretend they’re all of you…

-EC

28 @ Whiskey

Last Saturday was my 28th Birthday.  In honor of myself, I did a circuit of 28 of my favorite problems.  I’ve wanted to do this for the last few years, but the odds are usually against bouldering any given day in December in Montana.  I lucked out this year, with absolutely perfect weather.  Probably the nicest conditions I’ve ever had at Whiskey.  I climbed all but two of the problems in a t-shirt.  Here’s my 28:

#1)  Daddy Bear V0 – This problem and the next five are all on the Family Wall.  If you’ve never been to it, you should .  My favorite warm-ups at Whiskey.

#2)  Little Nosey Girl Who Should Have Minded Her Manners V0

#3)  Grumpy Old Men V1

#4)  Local Legrand V1

#5)  Mama Bear V3

#6)  Baby Bear V2

#7)  Bon V0

#8)  Osteoporosis V3

#9)  Deltoids of Doom V4

#10)  Emphysema Traverse V4

#11)  Hail Mary V2

#12)  Hail Ben V0

#13)  Afterburner V3

#14)  Reign of Fire V5

#15)  Slashface V0

#16)  Relish the Dog V4

#17)  Blackened V0

#18)  Urinal Cake V0

#19)  Strawberry Shortcake’s Alcohol Infused Anger V4

#20)  Little Debbie’s Fried Chicken Fury V4+

#21)  the Italian Job V5

#22)  the Cornballer V2

#23)  Globe Trotter V3 – This is where things started to feel hard.

#24)  Young Jedi  V0+++

#25)  CCC V5 – I had fight to top this one out.  Definitely lost my power endurance by this point.

#26)  Hairy Palms V2/3/4 – Just about gave up on this, but figured out a slightly better way on my last ditch effort.

#27)  Fear of Friction V0

#28)  Wave Rider V1 – My only failure of the day.  While I was figuring out the 28 I wanted to do, I knew that I wanted to finish with Wave Runner.  I tried it a few times and pretty much got worse each go, no endurance at all.  I had to settle for Wave Rider.

 

Also, here’s a video of a few Whiskey classics I did in the fall:

 

Lastly, and easily the best – the Whitehall forecast for the weekend:

As Alek says, “Drink It Up”

 

-EC

Tis the Season: Part 1

Whiskey season, that is.  A few pics from an outing a couple weeks ago:

Loren on Encephalitis

Todd on the Pope's Penis

Loren on Pope's

Loren off of Pope's

Loren on Pope's

A nice asian monk we ran into at the boulders

Todd on Meet my Meat

Todd on Inertia

Loren on Inertia

Loren on Inertia

Stay tuned for some brand new problems as well…

Also, FULL GRAVITY DAY IS NEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!

It’s on Saturday, November 5 to be exact.  DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We’re gonna take these:

Put ’em on these:

Resulting in this (could be you):

One week left to train…

-EC

the Last Few Weeks…

Alright, haven’t posted in a while so I’m just going to see if I can put everything in one big post.

First off, I went to Yellowstone over Memorial weekend.  Didn’t get any bouldering in, but I took some photos that turned out ok so I though I’d share:

In between bouts of rain and roped climbing, I’ve managed to get out bouldering a bunch.  Spent a few days at Whiskey developing, climbing established obscurities, and taking photos/vids:

Care Bear Flake of Fright, V0

the Shortest Straw, V2

my spotter, Seq-knar

Also, made it out to Yankee Jim for a few days doing the same.  Have some good video of some excellent new problems right in the heart of the Locomotives (about 50ft from Gigarete), but I’ve got a couple more to finish up then I’ll post up video of them all.  Also, Ho and I found a nice little valley of boulders in Yankee Jim that are only about 10 minutes from the road.  Not gonna be another Locomotives, but it should produce at least a few good ones.  Should be more on that in the future as well.

Lastly, not bouldering related, the Bozeman area has two new 5.13’s, put up by the usual suspects – Jeff Ho and Kyle Vassilopoulos.  Jeff did “Swamp Thing” (mid 13) a line he bolted last year at the Swamp in Hyalite.  Kyle did “Vincent” (5.13d) a long standing project at Frog Rock.  Nice work guys!

-EC

Whiskey

After more than two months nursing a stress fracture from Bishop, I’m finally getting back into the game.  Unfortunately the spring weather in MT has been dashing killing most hopes of climbing.  Luckily the Ho’s are a lot more on the ball when it comes to checking and interpreting the weather.  After seeing the forecast for last weekend I assumed it was going to be a weekend of spring cleaning.  But, I got a call Sunday morning from ’em saying we’re heading out and you should too.  I did.  And it was a near perfect day.  I even managed to run a couple laps pain-free laps on Wave Runner, which is the hardest thing (by far) I’ve climbed since Bishop.  Here’s a few photos:

Sarah on Tweeker

Jeff on Cool Aid

Chloe chalking up. She climbed way more boulders than I did! (photo by Jeff)

Sarah on Tweeker (photo by Jeff)

Jeff eyeing down a new line right in the heart of Whiskey Proper.

The hike out.

As long as the finger holds up there should be plenty more where that came from.  This rain can’t last forever…

-EC

Fine Winter Whiskey

Winter season is in full effect at the Whiskey Gulch.  With all the great weather (if you’re a boulderer) we been having there’s been a lot of recent action at Whiskey.  There’s been quite a bit of action on the old established classics along with a lot of attention being focused on an amazing arete project on the SE corner of the hill south of Whiskey proper.  If you know where you’re going it’s about 10-15 minutes from Caught in the Act.  But, like most everything on that hill, I can’t even try to explain how to get there, you pretty much need a guide or it will take you a lot longer (if you ever find it).

Anyway, THE arete is a gorgeous overhanging line of sidepulls and slopers on perfect rock (no cleaning required).  Over the course of the last few weeks many of Bozeman’s best have tried it with no luck.  Ho, Isaac and I hiked straight to it yesterday with Jon, Brandon and Jo arriving shortly after.  Ho and Jon had been getting close on it so we thought there was a good chance it was going down.

After doing a couple pull-ups on nearby crimps for a warm-up, Ho proceeded to cruise the arete first go, while all of us just stood and gawked.  Rediculous.  I don’t think anyone else even had their climbing shoes on by the time the project was no longer a project.  I’ve seen Ho do many crazy feats of climbing strength, but this may take the cake.  Becasuse of the nature of the climb (techy, yet burly arete = Ho problem) and the way it was climbed, we decided Ho didn’t have a choice in naming it.  We named it for him… “No Business Like Ho Business”  I think it’s right around V8 or V9.  Instant classic.

Next Isaac and Ho went to work on a new problem near “No Business…”  I was pretty content with sending my project on Saturday (see video below) so I just took photos of them trying it.  Ho ended up sending that as well, with Isaac getting really close before succumbing to the Whiskey crimps.  I think they may have gone with “In Spite of Erik” since I looked at the line a few times and deemed it not worth my time.  But, Isaac and Ho both swear it’s a classic as well.  Only time will tell.  Here’s some photos from yesterday.

Jo on "No Business Like Ho Business"

Jon trying hard on "No Business Like Ho Business"

Isaac on "No Business..."

Isaac cruxing "In Spite of Erik"

Isaac checking out the spicey, loose top-out "In Spite of Erik" while Ho's thinking about how cool it was that he climbed the arete project first go with no warm-up. Nice spot...

Lastly, here’s a video I put together of some of the other action of the past couple months.  It’s got myself on “Encephalitis” V6, Ho on “Lap Dances are So Much Better When the Stripper is Crying” V8, Kevin Volkening on “Wave Runner” V3, myself on “Slashface” V0 and Ho on “Seniled” V?  The last one, “Seniled” is the same as “Senile” (which is almost the same as “Encephalitis”) but eliminates the heel hook.  I don’t really know the grade, but I think Ho said he’s been trying it forever, so it’s probably a few grades harder than the V6 given in the guide.  Enjoy!

-EC