About time for my bi-monthly blog post… Well, it’s been a pretty nice spring here in SW Montana. Had to chase the good temps here and there but nothing to complain about (except ticks!). A few weeks ago I was pretty psyched on Yankee Jim. I managed to put down a couple fun new-to-me problems that I’d never climbed at the Locomotives – Mr. Leslie and Lightweight, both V6 and both highly recommended.
But, the main event was across the river – Montana’s Most Wanted. This amazing problem is on the far west side of the Campground. It was a fairly under the radar project for a long time before somebody climbed it a couple years ago and officially opened it to the masses. Pat Dyess may have done it first but he’s a ginger so he is not to be trusted. I spent one perfect day figuring out the moves and trying it from the start for a few hours. By the time I figured out the moves I was already worn out so I couldn’t quite put it together. But, I came back a few days later and put ‘er down first try. One of the best around! I finished up the day by climbing a new problem put up by Tony Chang in the talus west of MMW – Genghis Tron V5. It’s another great problems with an awesome landing thanks to the hard work of Tony (and possibly others).
Last week I was able to get out of town for a couple days. I’d been wanting to go somewhere all spring with the top choices being Lander or Cody but I’ve been really busy so they never quite materialized. I decided a quick trip to the Bitterroot was in order. One day in Lolo, one day in Lost Horse, three goals – Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo), Lock Off Lichen Lips V6 (LoHo) and Big Chuck V6 (LoHo). With a lot of sweat spent and a lot of skin lost (mostly at Lolo) I was able to climb all three problems! Big Chuck is good, Lock Off is better, and Boobies is another one of the best. Hooray for Boobies SDS is a couple moves into the best dyno ever followed by one of coolest mantels ever. What more could you ask for?
Lastly here a little vid I put together of three Montana classics (mentioned above) that I climbed this spring – Montana’s Most Wanted, Lock Off Lichen Lips and Hooray for Boobies SDS: