Alright, haven’t posted in a while so I’m just going to see if I can put everything in one big post.
First off, I went to Yellowstone over Memorial weekend. Didn’t get any bouldering in, but I took some photos that turned out ok so I though I’d share:
In between bouts of rain and roped climbing, I’ve managed to get out bouldering a bunch. Spent a few days at Whiskey developing, climbing established obscurities, and taking photos/vids:
Care Bear Flake of Fright, V0
the Shortest Straw, V2
my spotter, Seq-knar
Also, made it out to Yankee Jim for a few days doing the same. Have some good video of some excellent new problems right in the heart of the Locomotives (about 50ft from Gigarete), but I’ve got a couple more to finish up then I’ll post up video of them all. Also, Ho and I found a nice little valley of boulders in Yankee Jim that are only about 10 minutes from the road. Not gonna be another Locomotives, but it should produce at least a few good ones. Should be more on that in the future as well.
Lastly, not bouldering related, the Bozeman area has two new 5.13′s, put up by the usual suspects – Jeff Ho and Kyle Vassilopoulos. Jeff did “Swamp Thing” (mid 13) a line he bolted last year at the Swamp in Hyalite. Kyle did “Vincent” (5.13d) a long standing project at Frog Rock. Nice work guys!
I finally finished up the video from my first day of bouldering in Cody a couple weeks ago. I started off the day by finally trying the Cheese Traverse. I never tried it mostly because I’m scared of any problems that are longer than 3 moves. Well, I warmed up then figured out the moves and sent it. Even though it’s a traverse, it’s easily one of the best problems on Cedar Mtn. Perfect rock and really fun moves. Next up was Medusa, one of my 3 main goals for the trip. For me the problem came down to sticking the first move, then it’s 4 or 5 more painful crimp moves until the juggy finish. I only stuck the first move twice, falling off the last move the first time. I just about gave up because the problem was so hard on my fingers. I gave it another go and sent. I’m glad I did it, but I’m not sure I’d recommend it to others. I finished up with Kissing Cozzens, a hard dynamic problem that was really good. Here’s the vid:
Also congrats to the rediculous amount of 5.13 sends recently for Bozemanites. There’s been at least 8 different Boze-men who have sent a 13 in the last few weeks. Some of the more notable ascents include: Kyle Vassilopoulis got the FA of the Cube arete project in the Gallatin Canyon naming it “Occam’s Razor” (5.13d), Joe Meiners sent the Ho-Master’s Gallatin Tower testpiece “Ten Pin” (5.13c) for it’s third (?) ascent, and Kevin Macartney FLASHED “Neutral Spirit” a long 5.13a in Ten Sleep. Daaaammmmnnnnn! I’m just hoping to send a couple 5.11s this year… Congrats guys, keep up the good work!
Stay tuned for one more vid from my Cody trip.