Bouldering and Ice-Less Ice Climbing

It’s been a busy last month for myself in terms of climbing related stuff.  November started off with a bang in the form of the 14th installment of Full Gravity Day.  Good times were had by all.  Here’s a few pics from finals:

Inge on Woman's Final #2

Inge on Woman’s Final #2

K-Fed (Men's 1st Place!) on Men's Final #2

K-Fed (Men’s 1st Place!) on Men’s Final #2

Jesse on Men's Final #2

Jesse on Men’s Final #2

Molly (Female 1st Place!) on Woman's Final #1

Molly (Female 1st Place!) on Woman’s Final #1

Ryan on Men's Final #1

Ryan on Men’s Final #1

 

Shortly after FGD I hit the road for my annual pilgrimage to desert sandstone.  I climbed at the usual suspects in Utah – Joe’s Valley, Triassic and Moe’s Valley.  The trip ended slightly sooner than expected, but I was able to chase the good weather around and get a lot of great climbs in.  Some photos/screenshots:

Bazooka Tooth V7, Moe's Valley, UT

Bazooka Tooth V7, Moe’s Valley, UT

Underwhelmed V6, Moe's Valley, UT

Underwhelmed V6, Moe’s Valley, UT

Isosceles V4, Joe's Valley, UT

Isosceles V4, Joe’s Valley, UT

the Dead Sea V8, Joe's Valley, UT

the Dead Sea V8, Joe’s Valley, UT

Immediately after sending the Dead Sea, which ended up being my main project, I headed slightly up the Left Fork to Sunshine Daydream, a really cool looking V7.  After a few minutes figuring out the beta I was sure I would do it quick.  Things did not go as expected.  I threw for a gaston crimp, stuck it for half a second, then barn-doored off and knew I was going to miss the pads and land in jumbled fist sized rocks from a decent height.  Somehow I stuck the landing and was elated that I didn’t break anything.  That passed quickly when I realized I had ripped off half my middle finger’s tip resulting in the worst flapper I’ve ever seen.  Well, at least I got to spend Thanksgiving at home for the first time in a few years…

Sunshine Daydream V7, Joe's Valley, UT

Sunshine Daydream V7, Joe’s Valley, UT (next move way up and left is the flapper ripper)

the flapper #1

the flapper #1

the flapper #2

the flapper #2

 

Luckily it healed up relatively quickly and I was able to get out for my annual (weather permitting) b-day circuit at Whiskey.  Ended up being a beautiful day and I surprised myself by climbing pretty well despite not climbing since UT and being quite tired from helping set up the walls for the World Cup Ice Comp at the Bozeman Ice Fest.  Hope y’all were able to make it out for the first Ice World Cup held in North America.  It was quite the show!

Root Down V1, Problem #7, forgot how scary this one is...

Root Down V1, Problem #7, forgot how scary this one is…

Emphysema Traverse V4, Problem #13

Emphysema Traverse V4, Problem #13

the Italian Job V5, Problem #27

the Italian Job V5, Problem #27

Top of the World Cup walls was the best view in downtown Bozeman for a few days...

Top of the World Cup walls was the best view in downtown Bozeman for a few days…

Canadian Gordon McArthur representing North America in the World Cup Finals - 4th Place Overall.

Canadian Gordon McArthur representing North America in the World Cup Finals – 4th Place Overall.

 

-EC

Some Fall Photos

Looks like fall is coming to an end and winter is arriving as I type this.  63 to -6 in two days, gotta love Montana!  Can’t complain too much since it was a pretty damn nice fall that lasted a little longer than we normally hope for.  Here’s some photos from all around Southwest Montana:

Lucky Strike near Homestake Pass (Batholith)

Ho - crux dyno of the Long Knife V6

Ho – crux dyno of the Long Knife V6

Crazy tree

Crazy tree

Double pinky mono sit start on a slab!?!?  Ho - Pretty Shield SDS V2

Double pinky mono sit start on a slab!?!? Ho – Pretty Shield SDS V2

Ho - Fools Crow V2

Ho – Fools Crow V2

EC - FA of Shpadoinkle! V6

EC – FA of Shpadoinkle! V6

Moonshine Boulder (New World Gulch)

EC - Satellite V6

EC – Satellite V6

EC - Satellite V6

EC – Satellite V6

Yankee Jim

Leslie - Bobby Wonder V3

Leslie – Bobby Wonder V3

Leslie - Assault from Above V2

Leslie – Assault from Above V2

The Angel Boulders (Tobacco Roots)

EC - FA of Last Caress V5

EC – FA of Last Caress V5

EC - FA of Charybdis V6

EC – FA of Charybdis V6

EC - FA of Charybdis V6

EC – FA of Charybdis V6

-EC

Summer Summary

This blog’s not quite dead yet.  As usual, I spent the summer climbing on ropes rather than over crash pads.  I’d like to say that’s why I don’t post, but the posts don’t seem too much more frequent during bouldering season.  Well, it may just be a quarterly blog.  Deal with it.  All 7 of you.  Here’s some photos from the last 4 months or so:

EC - Happy Colored Marbles V2, FA - Boulder River Boulders, Mile 18

EC – Happy Colored Marbles V2, FA – Boulder River Boulders, Mile 18

4th of July celebrations at Chestnut

4th of July celebrations at Chestnut

Ho - Overhangatang V5 - Hyalite Canyon

Ho – Overhangatang V5 – Hyalite Canyon

EC - Overhangatang V5 - Hyalite Canyon (photo by Ho)

EC – Overhangatang V5 – Hyalite Canyon (photo by Ho)

EC - the Gravy Train 5.12b/c - Ten Sleep Canyon (photo by Ho)
EC – the Gravy Train 5.12b/c – Ten Sleep Canyon (photo by Ho)
SHo - Soft in the Middle 5.11c - Gallatin Canyon

SHo – Soft in the Middle 5.11c – Gallatin Canyon

Leslie - the Solace of Bolted Faces 5.12a - Wild Iris

Leslie – the Solace of Bolted Faces 5.12a – Wild Iris

Chris - the Devil Wears Spurs 5.10d - Wild Iris

Chris – the Devil Wears Spurs 5.10d – Wild Iris

Leslie - Limestone Cowboy 5.12a - Wild Iris

Leslie – Limestone Cowboy 5.12a – Wild Iris

Wild Iris

Wild Iris

EC - Don't Bring Your Guns to Town 5.12c - Wild Iris (photo by Chris Ennis)

EC – Don’t Bring Your Guns to Town 5.12c – Wild Iris (photo by Chris Ennis)

Chris - High Plains Drifter 5.10c - Wild Iris

Chris – High Plains Drifter 5.10c – Wild Iris

Jess - the Terrible V7 - Leavenworth

Jess – the Terrible V7 – Leavenworth

EC - Cattleguard Arete V8 - Leavenworth

EC – Cattleguard Arete V8 – Leavenworth

EC - Andy's Arete V5 - Leavenworth

EC – Andy’s Arete V5 – Leavenworth

Peder - Crimpsqueek V7 - Leavenworth

Peder – Crimpsqueek V7 – Leavenworth

Jess - Footless Traverse V5 - Leavenworth

Jess – Footless Traverse V5 – Leavenworth

EC - WAS V8 - Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

EC – WAS V8 – Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

Peder - Premium Coffee V7 - Leavenworth

Peder – Premium Coffee V7 – Leavenworth

Peder - Premium Coffee V7 - Leavenworth

Peder – Premium Coffee V7 – Leavenworth

EC - the Beach Arete V2 - Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

EC – the Beach Arete V2 – Leavenworth (photo by Jess Groseth)

-EC

Yankee Jim and the Bitterroot

About time for my bi-monthly blog post…  Well, it’s been a pretty nice spring here in SW Montana.  Had to chase the good temps here and there but nothing to complain about (except ticks!).  A few weeks ago I was pretty psyched on Yankee Jim.  I managed to put down a couple fun new-to-me problems that I’d never climbed at the Locomotives – Mr. Leslie and Lightweight, both V6 and both highly recommended.

But, the main event was across the river – Montana’s Most Wanted.  This amazing problem is on the far west side of the Campground.  It was a fairly under the radar project for a long time before somebody climbed it a couple years ago and officially opened it to the masses.  Pat Dyess may have done it first but he’s a ginger so he is not to be trusted.  I spent one perfect day figuring out the moves and trying it from the start for a few hours.  By the time I figured out the moves I was already worn out so I couldn’t quite put it together.  But, I came back a few days later and put ‘er down first try.  One of the best around!  I finished up the day by climbing a new problem put up by Tony Chang in the talus west of MMW – Genghis Tron V5.  It’s another great problems with an awesome landing thanks to the hard work of Tony (and possibly others).

Lightweight V6-ish

Lightweight V6-ish

Crux move on Montana's Most Wanted V7

Crux move on Montana’s Most Wanted V7

Genghis Tron V5

Genghis Tron V5

 

Last week I was able to get out of town for a couple days.  I’d been wanting to go somewhere all spring with the top choices being Lander or Cody but I’ve been really busy so they never quite materialized.  I decided a quick trip to the Bitterroot was in order.  One day in Lolo, one day in Lost Horse, three goals – Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo), Lock Off Lichen Lips V6 (LoHo) and Big Chuck V6 (LoHo).  With a lot of sweat spent and a lot of skin lost (mostly at Lolo) I was able to climb all three problems!  Big Chuck is good, Lock Off is better, and Boobies is another one of the best.  Hooray for Boobies SDS is a couple moves into the best dyno ever followed by one of coolest mantels ever.  What more could you ask for?

Snagging the dyno on Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo)

Snagging the dyno on Hooray for Boobies SDS V7 (Lolo)

trying Succubus V7 (Lolo)

trying Succubus V7 (Lolo)

Lolo Rock

Lolo Rock

Big Chuck V6 (Lost Horse)

Big Chuck V6 (Lost Horse)

 

Lastly here a little vid I put together of three Montana classics (mentioned above) that I climbed this spring – Montana’s Most Wanted, Lock Off Lichen Lips and Hooray for Boobies SDS:

 

-EC

Neat Rock Boulders

Loren, Bridget and I made it out to the Neat Rock Boulder in the Madison Valley yesterday.  They were only in town on Sunday and the forecast didn’t look good but we went out anyways.  It was a bit chilly warming up in the morning, but it slowly turned into a perfect day.  The sun popped out every once in a while which was great to bask in, but not long enough to heat up the slick rock.  We did a sweet little circuit on Lolo’s old stomping ground hitting up most of the classics.  I think I’ve said this before, but y’all should really hit up the Neat Boulders if you haven’t.  It’s not the largest area, but there’s some real gems out there!

We finished up the day on the Butterfly Effect, a classic two-mover V5/6 that Loren put up years ago.  While we were trying it I joked to Loren about doing a variation going up and right avoiding the jug finish of the Butterfly Effect.  Upon further inspection, it actually went!  I was able to decipher the moves and put it together just before we called it a day – the Lolo Effect V6, named after the man himself.

Photo from the day:

Loren - Tick Season V2

Loren – Tick Season V2

Loren - Tick Season V2

Loren – Tick Season V2

Loren - Tick Season V2

Loren – Tick Season V2

Bridget - Serendipity V0

Bridget – Serendipity V0

DSC_0059

DSC_0095

EC – Serendipity V0

DSC_0118

Loren – 5.15/V15 OW Project

DSC_0127

Bridget – Yesteryear V5/6

DSC_0130

EC – Yesteryear V5/6

DSC_0126

Loren – Follow the Wind V5

DSC_0143

Loren – the Butterfly Effect V5/6

-EC

A Few More from the Southeast

Well, I’ve been back in MT for over a week now and per usual I’ve been slacking on the blog.  Made it out to Whiskey yesterday and did a nice circuit at the End of the Road.  For anyone thinking of heading out next weekend be warned, there is lots of snow.  Pretty much all of the boulders are dry, but there’s a foot or two on the ground everywhere that doesn’t get baked with sun.  I normally bring gaiters but spaced it yesterday and my socks were soaked after just a bit of hiking.

Anyways, last I left off I was midway through my trip and had visited all the big three in the SE (HP 40, Stone Fort and Rocktown).  I finished up the trip by heading to 6 different areas in 7 days – the Lilly Boulders (Obed), TN, Stone Fort, TN, HP 40, AL, Rocktown, GA, Blowing Rock, NC and Rumbling Bald, NC.

As a quick summary, Stone Fort, Rocktown and HP 40 are all world class areas.  Any of the three are amazing destinations that shouldn’t be missed.  I wasn’t super impressed with the Lilly Boulders.  They seemed like a fun local area.  Probably wouldn’t go back for the bouldering, but the sport climbing looked stellar.  Although I didn’t spend much time, I was pleasantly surprised by the North Carolina areas and Rumbling Bald in particular.  The polished gneiss was a bit of a shock to the fingers after a couple weeks of perfect sandstone, but there were tons of classics in an amazing location.  Combine that with all the stuff around Boone and I think North Carolina could be a potential destination again in the future.

Photos:

Flexorcizer V7, Lilly Boulders (the Obed), TN

Flexorcizer V7, Lilly Boulders (the Obed), TN

Case - my Sequoia replacement for the day at the Obed

Case – my Sequoia replacement for the day at the Obed

Lab Rats V6, Rocktown, GA

Lab Rats V6, Rocktown, GA

Horse Pens 40, AL

Horse Pens 40, AL

Green Knob V5, Rumbling Bald, NC

Green Knob V5, Rumbling Bald, NC

the Biltmore Estate outside Asheville, NC

the Biltmore Estate outside Asheville, NC

Statue at the Biltmore Estate

Statue at the Biltmore Estate

-EC

Stone Fort, TN and Rocktown, GA

Not many words this time, but here’s a few more photos from the previous week in the South.  Just for you, Isaac:

Red House V7 - Stone Fort, TN

Red House V7 – Stone Fort, TN

the Wave V6 - Stone Fort, TN

the Wave V6 – Stone Fort, TN

Golden Shower V5 - One of the most aesthetic boulders around.  Climbs pretty darn good too.  Rocktown, GA

Golden Shower V5 – One of the most aesthetic boulders around. Climbs pretty darn good too. Rocktown, GA

Iron crimps at Rocktown, GA

Iron crimps at Rocktown, GA

Ruby Falls - This waterfall is INSIDE a mountain that overlooks Chattanooga.

Ruby Falls – This waterfall is INSIDE a mountain that overlooks Chattanooga.

Onward to the Lilly Boulders (the Obed), TN tomorrow and then Rumbling Bald, NC the following day.

-EC